Walk of the Month: Fingle Bridge and Castle Drogo, Devon

I hadn’t made a mistake after 30 years – the ridge-top village of Drewsteignton, perched on the northern edge of Dartmoor, was still totally charming. There were the pretty cottages and the Drewe Arms as I recalled them, bowed low under thatch on the diminutive village square, all presided over by the tall tower of Holy Trinity church. When I was last here the pub had been run as a front-room business by Mabel Mudge, 83 years old and spry as a lamb. ‘Oh, you remember Mabel!’ smiled the man I got chatting to on the path over to the River Teign. ‘Yes, she retired when she got to 99. 75 years she ran that place, and it never changed a bit.’

There was a wonderful view from the neighbouring ridge back to Drewsteignton huddled on its hilltop, and a sight of moor ponies grazing the gorse with streaming manes and tails. The bridle path ran at the rim of the Teign’s steep wooded gorge, then slanted down through oak and silver birch to where the river ran flashing with sunlight under the three ancient arches of Fingle Bridge. I lingered, watching children skimming stones between the cutwaters, before following the Fisherman’s Path on its rocky, rooty, twisting way, close above the river.

A gang of four tiny tots hooted and squeaked as they fished for bubbles with sticks, and high overhead a buzzard went circling over the walls of Castle Drogo. At the bridge below the castle I struck up a side path, climbing past the L-shaped thatched house of Coombe, snug among fruit trees in its peach of a dell.

Fingle Bridge, Dartmoor, Devon. Photo: Christopher SomervilleIf there was ever a fairytale castle… Castle Drogo looks down from a spur of rock, 300 feet to the Teign in the wooded gorge below. Edwardian tea tycoon Julius Drew excavated himself a Norman ancestry, decided to build himself a proper old castle, and got Sir Edwin Luyens to make his dream come true in stark granite. No Mad King Ludwig touches here – all is plain, strong and massive, a triumph of restraint. Marked ways lead from the gorge paths to the castle by way of beautiful gardens of roses and spring flowers. No wonder Drogo is called ‘the last great castle in England’.

When I got back to Drewsteignton and into the Drewe Arms, I saw it had changed – more than a bit. But it’s still a cosy place to raise a glass under the beams in celebration of Mabel Mudge and all that’s great about the West Country village pub.

Route map

See the route map for this walk.

Start & finish

Drewe Arms, Drewsteignton, Devon EX6 6QN (OS ref SX 736908)

Getting there
Bus: Dartline 173 (Exeter-Chagford), Country Bus 279 (Totnes-Okehampton; Sundays, public hols).
Road: From A30 east of Okehampton, A382 through Whiddon Down. In ½ a mile, Drewsteignton signed to left.

Walk

6 miles, moderate, OS Explorer OL28
From Drewsteignton Square, left; round right bend; 20 yards past old school, left (‘2 Moors Way’/MW) down lane. Ahead in bottom of valley (‘Castle Drogo/CD’) up steps. Follow fence up fields and over ridge. Through kissing gate; in 15 yards, left (732900); follow ‘Fingle Bridge’ fingerposts for 3/4 of a mile down to road (743901). Right to Fingle Bridge; don’t cross; right along river (‘Fisherman’s Path, CD’) for 1½ miles to bridge below Castle Drogo (721895). Right uphill (CD). In 1/3 of a mile, right (720900; ‘Hunter’s Path’); follow MW back to Drewsteignton.

Some steep steps; some rocky ledges in gorge with handrail (watch kids/dogs!)

Lunch: Drewe Arms, Drewsteignton (01647 281224; www.thedrewearms.co.uk); Fingle Bridge Inn (01647 281287; www.finglebridgeinn.com)

Castle Drogo (NT): 01647 434118;www.nationaltrust.org.uk/castledrogo

More info: Okehampton Tourist Information Centre, tel: 01837 53020; www.visitdevon.co.uk;www.ramblers.org.uk.

Browse books by Christopher Somerville.

See Christopher’s website:www.christophersomerville.co.uk

Author: Christopher Somerville

Butterfly Maps

Butterfly maps

Stanfords supplied a UK designer-artist with Stanfords Map of London 1951 for experimental pieces of artwork, now shown in a summer exhibition.

The exhibition, a collaboration between artist Samantha Neal and framer Gary Townsend, is named In a Flutter, and showed beautifully arranged and framed laser-cut card pieces, ranging from Samantha’s original butterfly configuration, through botanical arrangements, love hearts and birds.

email: [email protected].

See photos of Samantha’s lovely artwork below: Continue reading Butterfly Maps

Grown-Up Gapping – Reasons To Take A Break At Any Time Of Life

Voluntary work abroad is not just for gap year students – whether you’re taking a career break, considering new opportunities, recently retired, or the kids have flown the nest; whatever the reason, more of us want to volunteer overseas, challenge ourselves in a new way and give something back.

Sarah, Alastair and Katie all became volunteer managers with youth and education charity Raleigh, and they recently completed the organisation’s 10-week spring expeditions in Costa Rica, Nicaragua and Borneo. Here they share some of their experiences…

Dotted Line

Sarah Neale, Raleigh volunteer managerFreelance travel journalist Sarah Neale made the decision to take a career break after a family tragedy. Sarah joined Raleigh’s 10-week spring expedition in Costa Rica as communications officer and loved it so much she is staying out to volunteer again as project manager on the 2010 summer expedition. She says:

Four months before I signed up for Raleigh my brother was killed in a climbing accident. I was finding it difficult to write, so I decided to do something positive and constructive with my time, away from normal routines. Taking on a new challenge in a safe, structured environment, and one which nurtures personal development, with a charity organisation that had been recommended by close friends, seemed to tick a lot of boxes for me.

My role on the expedition was communications officer which is predominantly a field-based role. The induction phase prepared me really well; I enjoyed the training and as our expedition was so large, it was great to get to know the field-base crew before the mass of venturers arrived. I thought that the training itself was excellent and I felt well equipped to start the expedition come deployment day.

My key responsibilities included: setting up and maintaining the expedition blog, producing the merchandise (magazines and t-shirts) and documenting the expedition images. I really enjoyed the blog; I worked hard to develop the Google blogger website during the induction, and aimed to post updates on a daily basis. In the main part, we achieved this. I was really happy that I managed to get the venturers involved in writing blogs as it’s a great opportunity for them to get writing published, and I expect parents at home appreciated this too.

I also loved spending time out in the field, talking with the venturers and project managers, getting a better insight into expedition life, and seeing a lot of the two countries.

My role on the expedition has given me focus and purpose at a difficult time in my life, and introduced me to an amazing, supportive and inspiring network of people. I hope that during my second expedition, by taking on a project manager role, I can push myself, learn new leadership and negotiation skills, and learn to work better as part of a team.

Monkey Corcovado Trek

I spent three months describing my days via the blog; here are a couple of snippets:

Field base day:
It’s Sunday morning. By 6am, the swirling white mist that hovers over the dairy farm is starting to lift. The first mellow rays of sun have just crept over the horizon, warming my cheeks as I wander up the dirt track. It is 100 metres from my bed to the office.

I stick the kettle on and make some coffee. Outside the kitchen door, a couple of rickety chairs and a table are the makings of a breakfast room which gazes out over the farm. Chocolate brown cows peacefully munch the grass in a field dotted with vast trees bearing bright orange flowers. Brightly coloured birds flit playfully from tree to tree. The black-and-white cat that sleeps on the terrace lazily lifts his head and gives them a cursory glance before curling back up to sleep. It’s far too early for chasing birds.

A couple of kilometres away, at the edge of the valley floor, the landscape starts to rise. The emerald green grass changes to deep-green forest, lights from dwellings twinkle on the hillside and the slumbering giant of Volcan Turrialba looms above, a pillowy plume of smoke lingering on its summit like cotton wool.

I love this time of the day – the late-night owls are still sleeping, the early morning joggers are out pounding the back lanes and here in the office there’s an hour of absolute peace and calm. The start of another fine day at field base.

Trek day:
When I boarded the plane bound for Costa Rica I pictured a lush, jungled land; uniformly green, brimming with wildlife and swelteringly hot. Instead, I found something of a melting pot of landscapes – cloud forests, dry forests, mangroves, ashen volcanoes, bustling cities and fields bursting with fresh produce. It wasn’t until the end of expedition phase three that I discovered the place that I had imagined back in January: deep in the tropical south, Corcovado National Park stretches across the Osa Peninsula, a pristine bastion of biodiversity that left me open-jawed and wide-eyed. For me, it was the absolute highlight of my time in Costa Rica; I saw more wildlife in three days than I’ve seen in any other place on earth, even miraculously stumbling across a female puma and her cub during an early morning stroll through the jungle.

To spend time in this haven is a privilege: we work closely with the national park authorities to maintain and improve facilities in these protected pockets and, in return, we are granted access permits to explore the incredible ecosystems within. During my six days with ‘Zulu One’, we skirted a coastline that was peppered with sharks, crocodiles and dolphins; we watched sunsets that ranged from deep golden through dusky pink to blood red; we swam in crystal-clear rivers and slept in wooden-stilted ranger stations serenaded by the sounds of the jungle at night. We saw tapir, four different kinds of monkey, anteater, sloth, agouti, spiders, snakes and dozens of insects and butterflies. The vegetation included root buttresses the size of buses, Ceiba trees that towered 100m above the jungle floor, strangler figs, giant palms and thousands more. It was a truly magical experience.

My highlights so far include the people I’ve met – both in the UK and Costa Rica, and both volunteer managers and venturers; wild swimming in Corcovado National Park; wild camping on Playa Blanca (Santa Rosa National Park); field-base road trips; trekking; Catie swimming pool at dawn; coffee – sticky, sweet and delicious; discovering how much fun you can have not drinking; jungle camps; spotting rainbows through the rain in Guanacaste National Park.

The expedition has certainly built my confidence and energised me. I’m now able to spend a full day writing to a brief, and stay focused and positive. It’s also made me realise what you can achieve in a day when you get up at 3.30am! It’s made me aware of how little you need materially to succeed, and it has pushed me to be more resourceful and creative.

The experience has been a breath of fresh air. The rigid structure of training means you achieve so much during the expedition. It’s relentless at times, challenging and inspiring; it gives you a chance to explore environments that are simply not accessible to guidebook-toting backpackers, within a nurturing environment that encourages personal development. You also make some incredible friends – these alone are reasons enough to sign up!

Dotted Line

Alistair Parry, Raleigh volunteer managerTwo years into a graduate programme at a business and technical consultancy firm, Alastair Parry decided to take a structured sabbatical in which he joined Raleigh’s expedition in Borneo. He enjoyed it so much; he decided to stay on as volunteer manager in a trek leader role. He says:

Since graduating two years ago from Durham University, I’ve been on a graduate programme with a business and technical consultancy firm. As part of a structured sabbatical, I first took part on an expedition as a venturer and then continued into the spring 2010 expedition as a trek leader.

From my time out, I wanted to see the world and to travel and I wanted to experience Malaysia as a participant rather than just a traveller. I also needed to get away as I was becoming a bit blinded by life in London.

What attracted me to Raleigh was its team’s diversity. As a venturer you are thrown in with people from all over the UK as well as the rest of the world. As a volunteer manager you have to manage that diversity, and the conflicts that arise which is good experience.

My key responsibilities were as follows:
1. Getting up to 13 venturers through a trekking phase without injuring themselves.
2. Getting up to 13 venturers through a trekking phase having enjoyed it!

In my role as trek leader I had a variety of responsibilities including looking after rationing and making sure the group were hydrated enough. I also had to provide support and facilitate group activity, maintaining all contact with field base. During the first part of the expedition phase, I had to lead and facilitate group bonding, as well as ensure that personal development and one-to-ones took place. I was constantly enforcing health and safety, and was a key point of contact with guides and supporting organisations such as the Sabah Forestry Park.

Borneo Raleigh trek

This role has been brilliant for my self-development. Motivating a group of 18-24-year-olds to get up and trek at 6am is challenging. You have to be constantly motivated and upbeat. You also have to learn how to delegate. I was always the day-leader’s back up.

I have learnt new hard and soft skills to fulfil my role. Hard skills I’ve learnt include trekking, using a parang (a Malayan machete), building bashas and camps, open-fire cooking, and diving.

Soft skills I’ve learnt include management, motivation, delegation, facilitation, how to do one-to-ones and conflict management. The last three skills have been completely new to me and developing these has been a process of trial and error, and learning on the go. Learning this way has been much more fun than studying the theory and then implementing it.

One of my best moments on the expedition was hearing a clouded leopard moving in the background, which was a real highlight after a hard day’s trekking. One of the most challenging moments on the expedition was trekking along the ridge at Crocker Range National Park, knowing there was a distinct lack of water and trying to keep both myself and the group calm. I also had to keep field base informed with our progress and liaise with the guides to make educated decisions on what steps to take next.

To sum up my experience: wholesome. You see a side of the country you’d never normally see unless you were working there, and you attain a sense of achievement you wouldn’t get unless you’ve pushed your emotional, physical and mental capabilities.

Dotted Line

Katie Aston, Raleigh volunteer managerKeen for a career break, luxury travel specialist Katie Aston joined Raleigh’s 10-week spring expedition in Costa Rica and Nicaragua as the logistics coordinator and project manager.

At the beginning of 2009 I moved from London to live with my boyfriend in Jersey. My background is in luxury travel, but I was restricted with the jobs I was able to apply for. I ended up juggling three jobs; working in a cafe; waitressing for an upmarket catering company, and, amusingly, making sausages for a local farmer and developing his food products.

I felt that volunteering may be a way to regain my confidence in the workplace, allow me to live and work in Latin America and equip me with new skills. Raleigh was my only consideration, as I knew of its reputation. I had attended an open evening in London and knew that it operated in Costa Rica and Nicaragua – places I had always wanted to visit.

As logistics coordinator, I was in charge of designing suitable menus, placing orders with the wholesaler and allocating food to the groups, working within a tight budget. As a member of the field base staff, I was also required to assist other members of staff and operate the radio.

I enjoyed the camaraderie at field base, the variety of the job, the chance to go on road trips to see some spectacular projects, working alongside some fabulous Costa Ricans, improving my Spanish and answering the radio. It was also great getting an idea of where the groups were and what they were up to, despite being dispersed so far and wide.

The fact that you have to hit the ground running with the job is challenging, as is working to a deadline with last-minute changes to the numbers of people in the groups and having to deal with late deliveries.

Guanacaste trek - volcano sign - crater activo 6km

In the role of project manager, I was responsible for the welfare, happiness, safety and personal development of a group of 17-24-year-olds. I enjoyed the support that everyone gives each other on a trek, the highs that followed the lows every day, the physical challenge, the breathtaking scenery and the chance to visit communities far off the beaten track.

In terms of soft skills I learnt on the expedition; I developed my knowledge of Microsoft Excel as well as learning how to upload posts and messages onto the Raleigh blog. I have practised my Spanish extensively – this is the most that I have ever been required to use the language – so it has improved enormously.

The soft skills used at field base are communication (working on the radio is a newly acquired skill) and teamwork. Out on the project sites I had to solve problems, resolve conflict, give feedback, and work as both a leader and team member. I have found that being thrown in at the deep end is the best way to learn and develop.

A typical day on an expedition would go something like this:

As the logistic coordinator at field base, I am usually up at 6.30am and eating breakfast at my desk by 7.30am. For the rest of the morning I could be checking the food allocation spreadsheets, inputting invoices, offloading a delivery from the wholesaler, or counting packets of peanuts and raisins in the bodega. Hopefully someone will have thrown lunch together, and in the afternoon it could be a visit to the wholesaler, photocopying for the administrator, updating the blog or answering the radio. A trip to Maxi Bodega to pick up provisions is a regular occurrence, and in the evening I may be cooking a shepherd’s pie for the rest of the field-base staff, followed by time checking my email or Facebook, or if I could be persuaded, joining in a game of cards.

For me the expedition highlights were successfully distributing the food for the first phase with not too many dramas. Completing the Guanacaste trek and living in El Terrero in Miraflor, Nicaragua, sharing the house with pigs and chickens!

Volunteering has given me confidence to realise that I can be thrown into a variety of situations and that I can cope well outside my comfort zone: I previously felt uncomfortable speaking in front of a group and was overly concerned about how I came across to people. In completing the trek I realise that I am mentally and physically stronger that I originally thought. I realise that I am more positive than I thought and that I am able to lead a group of young people. I have enjoyed the teamwork at field base and the variety of tasks that are presented.

It has been the chance of a lifetime, combining living in a region of the world that I have always wanted to visit, working for a worthwhile organisation and being put in challenging situations surrounded by other inspiring volunteer managers – and having a lot of fun in the process.

My time as a volunteer manager has introduced me to some wonderful, dedicated people and given me experiences that I would never otherwise have been exposed to. It has given me the confidence I was lacking. The key for me was to take myself out of my comfort zone – be it completing a trek that I would never have thought I was capable of, or acting as a translator on a building project in Nicaragua.

Raleigh, the youth and education charity, runs overseas volunteer expeditions in Borneo, Costa Rica, Nicaragua and India. They need a variety of volunteer managers aged between 25 and 75 to help run expeditions in a number of roles. Raleigh logo

Date: 08/06/2010

 

Marseille, Cassis and the calanques

Marseille, France’s second-most populous city, and Cassis – both situated on the Mediterranean coast – are great places to visit the calanques of southern France.

I travelled there on the TGV – which is a very comfortable and quite cheap way of transport – allowing me to make the most of the beautiful landscapes along the way.

During my short stay in Marseille – the largest port in France – I went to the Basilica Notre-Dame de la Garde, situated at the highest natural point in Marseille, at 162m (532ft). From there is probably one of the most beautiful skylines in France: on one side the sea, with the islands of Frioul and the Château d’If, miles of coastline and the Vieux Port (Old Harbour), and on the other side, the city of Marseille in the midst of a semicircle of mountains. Continue reading Marseille, Cassis and the calanques

Walk Of The Month: Scorriton and Huntingdon Warren, Dartmoor

Our June Walk of the Month finds writer and journalist Christopher Somerville bombing across Dartmoor…

Whatever the Tradesman’s Arms put in their beef jalfrezi on curry night, it revved me right up for a brilliant walk the following day. The hamlet of Scorriton, sitting tight under the eastern rim of Dartmoor, almost lost its pub a few years back, and the shock of that threat galvanised the Tradesman’s Arms into a whole sparky new life. The food’s good, the beer’s excellent, and the social life that revolves around the little inn, from poetry nights to quizzes and singsongs to story-telling, is just amazing. If only all rural communities could respond like tiny Scorriton to the gradual sapping of their resources!

I strode up the stony lane to Chalk Ford like a man on a mission. Misty weather was forecast for later in the day, and though I had my trusty Satmap GPS device in my pack, I didn’t particularly want to find myself in a Dartmoor pea-souper. Continue reading Walk Of The Month: Scorriton and Huntingdon Warren, Dartmoor

Marrakech, Toubkal & Essaouira

Marrakesh

Despite having a good map it wasn’t until my third day in Marrakesh that I managed to navigate my way purposefully and accurately through the maze of alleys in the souks to reach everyone’s primary and ultimate destination – the Jemaa el Fna square. But of course that’s the point of the souks – to lose your sense of order as well as direction, to give yourself up to the claustrophobic sensuality and vibrancy of the markets. If you really want to know where you are, the map does give you some idea of the layout, but the minute you open it to re-establish your position, a young boy will be insisting he leads you to “la place”, as the Jemaa is simply known. Better just to drift and head for any glimpse of daylight from an open square when you’ve had enough of shopping.

I highly recommend staying in a riad in the medina. They offer oasis of style and calm in the dust and chaos of the old city. Somewhere you can retire to in the heat of the afternoon to rest and read in the quiet courtyard, while soft-slippered staff bring you mint tea and sweet biscuits. Alastair Sawday’s Special Places to Stay in Morocco has a well-researched and described selection of the finest. I also suggest that you arrange for the riad to pick you up from the airport as it is can be difficult to find the address on first arrival – they are often signposted by no more than an anonymous door in the mud wall of an alley too small to accommodate a car.

The list of sites to see in Marrakesh is not long – it is the life of the city itself that is the point – but the courtyard and student cells of the Koranic school at the Ben Youssef Medersa offer a welcome respite from the hurly-burly of the modern world outside. Likewise the Jardin Majorelle in the nouvelle ville, where the cool greens, yellows and blues of plants and painted pots provide further relief from the “red city”.

When we returned to Marrakesh at the end of our time in Morocco we stayed in the nouvelle ville and were lucky enough to follow Lonely Planet’s lead to the “Café des Livres” for lunch. A stylish (and air conditioned!) café/restaurant with lovely salads and sandwiches alongside a small bookshop featuring mainly second-hand paperbacks – a touch of recognisable Western culture amidst the stew of Arabic and African urban life.

Toubkal

We had a brief sojourn of a few days at a wonderful lodge that sits on a hill under the face of Mt Toubkal in the High Atlas. The location of the “Kasbah du Toubkal” cannot be beaten: to sit in the clear mountain air on the terrace of the lodge surrounded by the stunning scenery of the Atlas is a life-restoring experience. The Kasbah itself offers simple but stylish accommodation and service – your luggage is carried by mule from the village -and it is operated by and for the benefit of the local Berber population. They can also organise guided treks: to the summit of Toubkal (2 days) or shorter local walks, after which I recommend recovery in their hammam!

Mount Toubkal, Morocco

Essaouira

The wind! It never stops in Essaouira. When I put this to our hotelier she smiled and said “pas toujours, mais souvent”!

The huge beach was a splendid site nonetheless, particularly on a Sunday morning when no fewer than twenty separate football games were being played on pitches marked in the sand.

Don’t miss the fresh fish stalls where you can have your choice of the latest catch grilled on the spot. Although the prices per kilo are marked on an official board, you should still haggle, as you do for most things in Morocco! Including for our ride on the camels along the edge of the sea – the highlight of the trip for my children at any price!

Maps & Books

Although the streets of the medina of Marrakech defy orderly navigation, the Street Map of Marrakech and Essaouira is the best attempt to chart the chaos. It is clearly drawn at a good scale, including enlargements of the souks and Gueliz. The additional coverage of the surrounding region and Essaouira is a bonus if you are travelling out of the city. The reality on the ground is that most of the streets in the medina are not signposted, and those that are, are in Arabic, which simply makes the map reading a bit more challenging!

The TimeOut Guide to Marrakesh also includes coverage of the Atlas and Essaouira, and is reliable and informative as usual. I’m a fan of the Rough Guide to Morocco too. The Lonely Planet Guide to Morocco has just been updated.

Barnaby Rogerson knows more about Morocco than most and he shares his wisdom with wit and enthusiasm in the Cadogan Guide to Morocco. The depth of his coverage on the country’s culture is second to none, but if you’re only going to Marrakesh it’s a big book to carry!

Barnaby also edits Marrakesh – Through Writer’s Eyes– a varied collection of writings about the city that provides glimpses of the enduring fascination Marrakesh has had for travellers over many different eras of history.

While I was in Morocco, I also read Tahir Shah’s The Caliph’s House, his story of moving his young family to a ruined mansion in the outskirts of Casablanca. The book is not only about the practical challenges of renovating the house – which in Morocco makes Grand Designs look easy! – but is also about a personal and at times moving search for his family roots. With a cast of lively characters and Shah’s light touch, the book reads like a novel, and it left me with a sense of the rich cultural rhythms that propel Moroccan life but which are largely unseen by us tourists.

Author: Douglas Schatz

Author sets up camp at Stanfords

Author and eco-traveller Dixe Wills cycled to Stanfords in London on Friday lunchtime and set up camp in our store.

Dixe Wills with two fans in London Stanfords He was signing copies of his new book – Tiny Campsites – where he reviews 75 of the best tiny campsites (all an acre or under in size) in Britain, and each of which is guaranteed to give a unique holiday experience.

Guardian travel writer and fervent camper Dixe Wills has travelled through England, Scotland and Wales in search of stunning little places to pitch: on farms, cliff-tops and islands; in woodlands, quarries, orchards and back gardens; and beside pubs, lochs, rivers and museums. Continue reading Author sets up camp at Stanfords

Walk Of the Month: Purton and Sharpness, Gloucestershire

There’s definitely something strange about the river country along the Severn Estuary. Whether it’s the influence of the mile-wide tideway, the big overarching skies, or the highly idiosyncratic dwellings and their occupants down the twisty lanes that end abruptly at the river, to walk here is to step away from the everyday into some parallel, Severn-centred universe.

Setting out from Brookend, a few miles north of Bristol on the ‘English bank’, Jane and I found ourselves straight away in a tangle of wide old green lanes. You feel that the landscape must be flat, so close to such a big river, so it comes as a shock to top a rise of ground and find a 20-mile view unrolling. To the east the long South Cotswold ridge, May Hill and the heavy tree cover of the Forest of Dean swelling in the west, and between them the Severn hurrying seaward in a muscular double bend of low-tide tan and silver – we halted to gaze our fill before hurrying down the slope into Purton.

In the early 19th century a 16-mile-long canal was dug from Gloucester down to Sharpness on the lower Severn, cutting out some of the dangerous river bends. Purton, right beside the canal, became a busy little place. Nowadays it’s a sleepy waterside hamlet once more, full of charm and possessed of a true classic of a never-changing pub. No food, no late opening and no nonsense at the Berkeley Arms under the admirable guidance of Mrs Wendy Lord – just a huge fire, stone floors, comfortable old settles, and beer so good it sits up and begs to be drunk. Resistance is useless.

Just down the river path we found an extraordinary elephant’s graveyard of redundant boats – dozens of concrete barges and wooden Severn colliers, rammed into the mud during the late years of the 20th century to stabilise the tide-burrowed bank between river and canal. Lovingly labelled by the ‘Friends of Purton’, they cluster the margins of Severn in death as in life – Orby, Abbey, Huntley and Harriett, their timbers shivered, their sides split, tillers and hawseholes still bravely held aloft, a poignant gathering.

Beached barge - 'Harriet' - at Purton, Gloucestershire. Photo: Christopher Somerville  On down the canal, and through the abutments of a mighty railway bridge that once spanned the Severn. On the night of 25 October 1960, in a thick autumn fog and pitch darkness, two tankers – one loaded with oil, the other with petrol – collided with the bridge piers and exploded, sheeting the river in flame and killing five of the eight crewmen. The damaged bridge was eventually demolished, but the remnants of the tankers are still seen on the riverbed at low tide, and plenty of people around the river port of Sharpness retain vivid memories of that awful night.

Sharpness itself is a rare survival, a working port handling cement, fertiliser and scrap metal far up the tidal Severn. We stopped to watch the cranes swinging bags of fertiliser out of the hold of Shetland Trader, then crossed the canal and made for the field path to Brookend with a sharp appetite apiece. ‘Try the antelope and ginger sauce,’ suggested cheery Dan in the Lammastide Inn. I thought he was pulling my leg, till I looked at the menu board. You’re not in Kansas any more, Toto.

Route map

Walk of the month - May - annotated route map - Purton and Sharpness, Gloucestershire. Due to licensing restrictions in place on Ordnance Survey mapping the mapping extract must be removed prior to printing, or all printing must be limited to 10 paper copies or less and used for personal use only

Due to licensing restrictions in place on Ordnance Survey mapping the mapping extract must be removed prior to printing, or all printing must be limited to 10 paper copies or less and used for personal use only.

Chris’s map annotations:
1 – Lammastide Inn (START)
2 – Lip Lane
3 – Gloucester & Sharpness Canal
4 – Swing Bridge
5 – Berkeley Arms PH
6 – Boat ‘graveyard’
7 – Severn Railway Bridge Abutments
8 – Dockers’ Club
9 – Docks
10 – Swing Bridge
11 – Village Hall

 

 

Route profile

Purton and Sharpness, Gloucestershire walk route profile

Use this GPX file: [FILE:137] for importing the route into digital mapping products, such as Memory Map and Anquet or drop it straight onto your GPS unit. Check the instructions for your particular model to see how this is done.

Use this KML file: [FILE:138] to see the route in Google Maps (under My maps) and Google Earth.

Start & finish

Lammastide PH, Brookend, Sharpness GL13 9SF (OS ref SO 684021).

Getting there

Train to Cam & Dursley (7 miles); several buses to Sharpness.

Road: M5 (Jct 14); A38 (‘Gloucester’); B4066 (‘Sharpness’); right to Brookend. Park at Lammastide PH (please ask permission, and give the pub your custom!)

Walk

6½ miles, easy grade, OS Explorer OL14
From pub, right past phone box; left on bend (‘bridleway’). In 100 yards at gate, keep left on green lane. At T-jct, right (686023 – blue arrow). In 300 yards, opposite gate, left (689022 – ‘footpath’ stone) across fields (gates, yellow arrows/YAs) for 1 mile to Purton. Reach road left of church. (682042). Ahead across canal; left to next bridge (691044); right past Berkeley Arms PH. Riverside path joins canal towpath (687044). NB To see beached boats, detour right here.

Towpath into Sharpness; cross canal (670030). Up steps (‘Severn Way’); ahead past bungalows; right past Dockers’ Club (671029) to road. Left across more seaward of 2 swing bridges (673029). Ahead to road (677026); right (‘Sharpness’). Left beside Village Hall (674021 – fingerpost); cross stile; left to cross stile in hedge (678021); up hedge, through gate at top; YAs to Brookend.

Lunch: Lammastide Inn (friendly and handy), tel: 01453 811337.

Drink: Berkeley Arms (open Wed-Sun,7-10pm; Sat-Sun 12-2pm).

More info:Stroud Tourist Information Centre, tel: 01453 760960.

See books by Christopher Somerville.

More walks: www.christophersomerville.co.uk.

A version of this article first appeared in The Times, 13/03/2010.

Author: Christopher Somerville

Pécs, Hungary

The pretty city of Pécs is a strong competitor to Hungary’s capital, Budapest, for attractiveness and cultural offerings. Surrounded by vine-covered mountain slopes, and blessed with a mild climate and beautiful architecture, the city is a gem of a destination waiting to be discovered. Being named European Capital of Culture 2010 has led to Pécs refurbishing its central squares and museums, as well as converting parts of the old Zsolnay Factory to house a new exhibition hall, arts and crafts centre and theatre, one of the largest such projects in Europe. Here is just a sample of some of the delights Pécs has to offer…

Top 5 sights and attractions

See the remarkable Roman remains at the Cella Septichora Visitor Centre, a Unesco World Heritage Site. The centre displays sepulchral monuments such as the wine pitcher chamber, with rich wall-paintings; and the 4th-century Peter-Paul burial chamber, a two-storey construction with a chapel. Continue reading Pécs, Hungary

St George – not just England’s patron saint

Did you know…

• St George is not only famous as England’s patron saint, but is also very much honoured by the Eastern Orthodox Church, wherein he is referred to as a Great Martyr, and in Oriental Orthodoxy overall. His major feast day is on 23 April.

• St George is also one of the patron saints of the Mediterranean islands of Malta and Gozo. In a battle between the Maltese and the Moors, St George was alleged to have been seen with St Paul and St Agata, protecting the Maltese. Besides being the patron of Victoria where St George’s Basilica in Malta is dedicated to him, St George is the protector of the island of Gozo.

• Other countries that celebrate St George’s Day include Portugal, Cyprus, Greece, Georgia, Serbia, Bulgaria, Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Republic of Macedonia.