Belgium – Bruges

BrugesDay trips in my family tend to take the form of several hours in a hot car on the way to the south coast, followed by 40 minutes wandering aimlessly over sand-dunes as storm clouds gather, and then another couple of hours in the car, in order to arrive back home in a foul temper. The temper is partly induced by having to spend what seems an inordinate amount time in a confined space with our nearest and dearest, and partly by the fact that whenever we choose to make these day trips, every single restaurant, café and hot food stall on the south coast has closed for the day, forcing us to eat our ‘emergency’ bacon sandwiches, which have spent the journey down congealing in a sorry brown paper bag.

Perhaps one day I will reminisce about these trips as the crowning joy of my youth, but I sincerely doubt it.

It seemed almost too good to be true, then, when I was offered a family outing to Bruges for the day, prompted by the film ‘In Bruges’. Pouncing on the idea, I assured my father that the journey would be painless and cheap, and so we had booked and paid for the Dover-Calais Eurotunnel crossing within minutes of the mini-break being suggested – I use the word “mini-break” hesitantly, as it conjures up the image of couples ensconced in Paris hotel rooms, but I’ve run out of synonyms, so you’ll just have to grin and bear it. We decided to travel by car, as opposed to Eurostar, because the flexible ticketing system allowed us to deviate from our schedule as much or as little as we wanted.

I didn’t escape from the emergency bacon sandwiches, which were furtively packed into the well of the passenger seat just before we left home at five o’clock in the morning for Dover. The journey, however, was as painless as I had promised. Four hours door to door, most of it was spent on the fast-flowing, seamlessly flat motorway in Flanders which delivers you straight to the outskirts of Bruges.

It must be noted that Bruges is a picturesque but very strange place. I have never been to a city before whose inhabitants subsist entirely on pralines and lace, or so it seems, at least, when you look at the shops in the city centre, which uniformly alternate between chocolatiers and haberdasheries. Having said that, I’m not entirely sure that I can claim to have actually seen any natives of Bruges during the eight or so hours we spent in the city, as there were more tourists than you could shake a Thomas Cook brochure at. But when you get used to the idea that Bruges is essentially a life-size version of Disney World, and actually buy into the whole thing, you begin to enjoy it. We took a boat ride along the city’s canals, and climbed the belfry, and lunched on traditional Belgian Waterzooi stew. We even visited the quieter residential districts of the city, with their architectural mix of modernist and traditional Flemish styles, and their liberating lack of Segway-touting tour groups, which plague the city’s two main squares.

For a city of such small stature, Bruges has an incredibly rich variety of sights, from the manicured Beguinage monastery to the enormous Gothic town hall, and the small but perfectly formed Groeninge museum, which houses one third of Belgium’s national collection of Flemish art. If you’re prepared to spend half a day travelling and half a day soaking up art, culture and food – and why not? – then Bruges could be the perfect day trip.

> Bruges travel guides and maps

Author: James White

Armenia

ArmeniaYerevan – a little slice of California in the Caucasus?

Ten minutes across the border from Georgia into Armenia, my taxi is pulled over by the traffic police. Out steps the archetype of the corrupt police official – big uniform, big hat, big belly. Who knew that being a policeman in provincial Armenia was so lucrative? Our crime, it seems, is that the taxi is Georgian-registered and the driver himself is Georgian. Spit spit. Actually, there’s no love lost between Armenia and any of its neighbours, certainly not Turkey because of the Armenian genocide, in which up to 1,500,000 Armenians were murdered. Definitely not with Azerbaijan, with whom the dispute over the territory of Nagorno-Karabagh does not look like being settled for a very long time to come. Armenia, then, would be isolated, if it weren’t for two things – firstly, its close relationship with Moscow, which posts its soldiers along Armenia’s sealed borders, and, secondly, the enormous Armenian diaspora, particularly in California, whose remittances keep the country well in the green.

After a ham-fisted attempt at bribery, my taxi driver goes on the offensive and threatens to call the Georgian embassy. That seems to do the trick, and the policeman suddenly remembers that it was another car which was supposedly speeding. We drive on, my driver fuming in broken Russian about Armenia and the Armenians. “You can’t trust them, they’re devious”, he says. In fact, I rather like them.

We stop off at the Unesco monasteries of Haghpat and Sanahin, high in the forested hills around the Debed Canyon. The scenery is stunning, with views from the 10th-century bell tower over lush ravines. In the cloisters of the complex, Khatchkars – intricate Armenian crosses – rise from the moss-covered floor, and birds nest in the delicately carved roofs of incense-filled chapels. The driver stays in the car with the window down, chain smoking.

After an eight-hour drive from Tbilisi, we arrive in Yerevan in the evening. Crossing into the city over the Hrazdan gorge, I see villas built by diasporan Armenians which seem to have been transported directly from some Florida holiday-home development. Their squat brashness is oddly out of keeping with the stark natural beauty of the surrounding landscape. The city itself again seems to have come from the States by way of the USSR. High-rise blocks are everywhere, but made in a distinctly Soviet fashion. It’s actually quite attractive, but in a perverse kind of way.

The opera is the centre of Yerevan, another Soviet megalith of a building. Around it there are stylish open-air cafes and basement clubs, where most of the city seems to congregate all day, drinking soorch – Armenian coffee. It’s a shock to discover that anyone actually does any work in Yerevan. Other highlights include the incredible Cafesjian Museum of Art on top of the monumental Cascade, a terraced series of fountains with views over to mystical Mount Ararat.

If the big city gets too much, a day trip to one of the ancient sites around Yerevan is an insight into a purer Armenian culture. But it still conjures up strong contrasts; at the monastery of Khor Virap, on the plain of Ararat, I climbed down the snake pit – where St Gregory the Illuminator was incarcerated for years on end – before witnessing a live goat sacrifice. Next to me sat a group of Armenian-American teenagers, who huddled together speaking English whilst their parents, guilty about abandoning their native land and heritage for the US, straddled the goat, knife in hand.

Take the Lonely Planet Guide to Armenia, Azerbaijan and Georgia, written by authors who have travelled for years in the region, plus provides interviews with locals. We stock a large, indexed street plan of Yerevan.

Browse our collection of maps and guide to Armenia >

Author: James White

Uzbekistan

The Hotel Uzbekistan was Tashkent’s sanctioned ‘foreigner’ hotel during the Soviet Union, when – for a considerable donation – tourist parties were permitted to visit this most hermetic part of the USSR. Now that Central Asia is as free and easy as the rest of the world, The Uzbekistan still stands, an enormous hulking monolith on the edge of Independence Square, which has at its centre a statue of Timurlane, or Tamurlane, or Timur Leng depending on how keen you are to publicise his lameness (Timur Leng means Timur the Lame). Having stayed before at behemoth hotels throughout the former Soviet Union, I was surprised to discover that the staff at The Uzbekistan were pleasant, normal people. In true Uzbek style though, the cavernous hotel restaurant doubled up as a ballroom. This meant that having witnessed wedding-guests from as far afield as Afghanistan and India partying the night away, the hotel’s 30 or so overnight guests – mostly European tourists and Iranians – would sit the following morning at silk and flower-bedecked tables eating their cereal.

Stalin’s gerrymandering of Turkestan’s borders had few positive aspects – the Tajik Civil War, interethnic violence in the Ferghana Valley, etc. However, there has been one definite winner in the aftermath of the USSR – the Uzbek Tourist Board, which finds itself with three of the Silk Road’s greatest surviving cities on its territory. The names Khiva, Bukhara and Samarqand resonate with the most overblown and romantic images of camel caravans passing through the desert, laden with cargoes of oriental treasures bound for Istanbul and Venice. Khiva is a spectacular, but controversial museum town. The ‘Hotel Khiva’ is located in a medieval madrassah, with views from each of the rooms over the perfectly preserved and restored city. In fact, Khiva is almost too perfect; Unesco’s decision several years ago to make Khiva into a world heritage site led to the Uzbek’s government’s decision to throw all the local population out of the city and to proclaim the foundation of Khiva as a ‘museum ensemble’.

The cities of Bukhara and Samarqand are by contrast large and thriving metropolises – Samarqand, with its population of 500,000, is Uzbekistan’s second largest city. Both cities contain some of the finest Persian architecture in existence, most famously the Registan of Samarqand, which Lord Curzon called the world’s most “majestic” square, and the Gur-Emir, or Timurlane’s mausoleum, which almost quite literally drips with gold leaf.

The Khanate of Bukhara was the most bloodthirsty of the Central Asian states during the ‘Great Game’ of the 19th century, when the British and the Russians vied for power in Central Asia. Today you can visit the Zindan, or prison, in Bukhara’s citadel, where the young British officers Stoddart and Connolly were kept prisoner for several years before being executed on the orders of the Emir. After having my own battle with several hornets the size of small aircraft carriers – which, incidentally, are ubiquitous in Uzbekistan (hornets, not aircraft carriers) – I visited the Kayon minaret, also called the Tower of Death because prisoners were supposedly hurled 47m to their deaths from its top on market days during the time of the Khanate.

Uzbekistan is generally branded as a destination for those interested solely in blue majolica tiles. Whilst there is an awful lot of blue majolica about, I would argue that it is an adventurous enough place in itself, and full of enough incredible sights, to warrant a visit from anyone with a sense of curiosity.

The Odyssey Guide The Golden Road to Samarkand is the most comprehensive guide available dedicated exclusively to Uzbekistan. It combines well with the Roskartografia 1:1,500,000 map of Uzbekistan. Author: James White

Award nomination for Stanfords’ café

Stanfords’ in-store café is in the running to win the prestigious London Lifestyle Award 2010. Sacred Café, which can be found at the Floral Street entrance of our London store, has been announced as a finalist in the Coffee Shop of the Year category.

The London Lifestyle Awards aim to honour those whose work has made an outstanding contribution to London and to promote excellence and diversity for throughout the city.

Sacred Café is owned and run by New Zealanders Tubbs Wanigasekera and Matthew Clark, and they have been operating for over five years in London. Clark says, “This is a huge thrill for us and immensely gratifying to be recognised against other excellent cafes in London”.

The cafe has a reputation for high-quality coffee, friendly staff and stylish and comfortable interiors, and is a particular favourite with Antipodeans living in and visiting London. Sacred is also becoming known for their quality teas that come from Wanigasekera’s family-run plantations in Ceylon (Sri Lanka).

Walk Of The Month: Portesham and Hardy's Monument, Dorset

A blackbird was singing on the garden wall of Portesham House, where stone lions couchant guarded the porch. Thomas Masterman Hardy, who lived here in the Dorset downs as a young boy in 1778, was destined for fame as a much-loved sailor and man of action. Horatio Nelson’s close friend and trusted Flag Captain died loaded with honours in September 1839. In that month his namesake, the future novelist and poet Thomas Hardy, became the tiniest of twinkles in his mother’s eye at Higher Bockhampton, a few miles over the hills to the east. It’s not the great writer who is commemorated by the tall stone Hardy’s Monument on the downs, but the fighting admiral from little Portesham village.

Near the path to Hardy’s Monument crouches the Hell Stone, a Neolithic tomb resembling a heavily armoured giant crab, whose nine massive stone legs support a huge capstone of flint-studded conglomerate. The Devil, playing a game of quoits, hurled the Hell Stone here from the Isle of Portland 10 miles away, so local stories say.

Up in a cold wind by the monument, Jane and I savoured that fabulous tale along with an equally fabulous burger of local beef, cooked and served with a relish of friendly banter by the pony-tailed man in the Hobo Catering van. Hobo the Canadian Inuit dog (who has kindly lent her name to the admirable fast-food business run by her master) followed every mouthful with the soulful gaze of true cupboard love.

Christopher Somerville at Hobo's, Dorset Truth to tell, Hardy’s Monument looks more like a factory chimney than a memorial to a national hero. But the views over Dorset are sensational. Even more stunning is the prospect from the steep ridge above Waddon House, where we paused on the way back to Portesham. Downs and farmlands, the shingle bar of Chesil Beach, St Catherine’s Chapel on its knoll of strip lynchets, the Devil’s quoits pitch of Portland lying like the Gibraltar of Wessex on a bay of molten silver – if any view could entice an adventurous lad to sea, it would be this.

Route map

See the route map for this walk.

~Due to licensing restrictions in place on Ordnance Survey mapping the mapping extract must be removed prior to printing, or all printing must be limited to 10 paper copies or less and used for personal use only.~

Route profile

Portesham - walk of the month route profile



Use this GPX file: [FILE:175] for importing the route into digital mapping products, such as Memory Map and Anquet or drop it straight onto your GPS unit. Check the instructions for your particular model to see how this is done.

Start & finish

King’s Arms, Portesham, Dorset DT3 4ET (OS ref SY 603857).

Getting there

Train (www.thetrainline.com; www.railcard.co.uk) to Upwey (6 miles); bus service 61 from Dorchester (www.surelinebuses.co.uk); road – Portesham signed off A35 Dorchester-Bridport at Winterbourne Abbas.


Walk

7½ miles, moderate grade, OS Explorer OL15

From King’s Arms, cross street; up Church Lane; right up Back Street; left opposite Manor Close (602860). Follow ‘Portesham Withy Beds, White Hill, Abbotsbury Round Walk/ARW’ signs/waymark arrows. Pass withy beds; through gate at end of trees (592860). Sharp right up steep bank; follow fence (fingerpost, ARW) for 1/3 mile. Right over stile (592865) by ‘South Dorset Ridgeway, Hardy’s Monument/HM’ marker stone. Follow ‘Inland Coast Path/ICP’ for 2/3 mile to road (601869). Left (great care!) for 30yd; right (HM fingerpost) down fence for two fields. Detour right (605869; ‘Hell Stone only’) over stone stile to Hell Stone (605867); return to path; follow ICP through wood to Hardy’s Monument (613876). Cross road; follow ICP to recross road (616877; ‘ICP, Jubilee Trail/JT’). In 1/3 mile (620874), right off ICP, following JT for 1¼ miles past Bench farm ruins (624864) to road (630857). Right; in 100yd, right (’Portesham’); in 200yd, right over stile (yellow arrow/YA). Diagonally right to ridge top; follow fence (stiles, YAs) for 1 mile. Through gate by Portesham Farm (612861); left down drive; right along lane into Portesham.

Lunch: Hobo’s Catering van at Hardy’s Monument (presence likely, not guaranteed); King’s Arms, Portesham (tel: 01305 871342; www.kingsarmsportesham.com; B&B available)

More info: Dorchester TIC (tel: 01305 267992) www.westdorset.com; www.ramblers.org.uk.

See books by Christopher Somerville.

Online map and more walks: www.christophersomerville.co.uk. Author: Christopher Somerville

Istanbul

Istanbul, previously known as Byzantium or Constantinople and 2010’s European Capital of Culture, has long been considered an unmissable destination. The city offers everything from shopping and relaxation, to culture and historic landmarks.

Outside the Euro-zone, Istanbul is perfect for all travel budgets and with a wealth of attractions and easy transport, not to mention exquisite cuisine, warmth and hospitality, an amazing experience in the city is guaranteed.

Top places to visit

Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya) – cathedral, turned mosque and now a museum.

Dolmabahce Palace – this spectacular museum was originally an Ottoman administrative centre – a must see for those interested in culture or history.

Topkapi Palace – one of Istanbul’s most renowned and beautiful palaces.

Galata Tower – provides a panoramic view of the city and the Bosphorus.

Grand Bazaar (and Spice Bazaar) – heaven for shopaholics, lose track of time in the small passages and haggle for goods.

Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii) – so called (in English) for the adorning blue tiles.

Top things to do

Visit the Prince’s Islands – escape to a completely different world away from the hustle and bustle of the city in just a 30-minute Vapur (boat) ride.

Tour up the Bosphorus river – either by special tour or in a Vapur – to make the most of the weather and skyline.

Watch a sports event – be it a football or basketball match. Although be warned, some heated rivalries, especially between Galatasaray and Fenerbahce, can be daunting and celebrations can be unusual to say the least.

Go shopping – in Istiklal Caddes, Beyoglu (in the European side) which can be combined with a ride on one of the oldest subways (built in 1875) or Bagdat Caddesi (in the Asian side) and most importantly the Grand Bazaar.

Events
International Istanbul Film Festival – April
International Istanbul Theatre Festival – May/June
International Istanbul Music Festival – June/July
International Istanbul Jazz Festival – July
Eurasia Culture Festival – July
Intercontinental Istanbul Eurasia Marathon – October
Cumhuriyet Bayrami (Republic Day) – October
Streetart Festival Istanbul – September

Getting around

Dolmus – communal taxi
Vapur or deniz otobüsü – boats
Otobüs – bus
Taxi

Resources

The best maps for Istanbul are the laminated and water-resistant AA City Map, take The Rough Guide to Istanbul, or for a smaller, more compact guide, the Berlitz guide to Istanbul.

Istanbul’s European Capital of Culture 2010 website: www.en.istanbul2010.org.

Author: Tara Tanoz-Sargeant

USA – Great Plains

For most Americans, and visitors, North Dakota and South Dakota or Nebraska and Iowa are often seen as so-called ‘flyover’ states; places on the way from somewhere to elsewhere; boring flatness between the excitements of the east and west coasts. It is deeply unjust for these great places. Having said that, I have to admit I wasn’t initially planning to go there this summer. I was planning, for a long time, to visit spectacular western Canada. But, on one quiet afternoon, somewhere in February or March, I was walking by the USA section in Stanfords (which I take care of) when a map of North and South Dakota caught my attention. And that was it, after just a few minutes of studying it, I knew that my Canada plans were gone and the Great Plains were my next destination.

I started my trip in Minneapolis as it is a big transportation hub (with direct flights from London) on the edge of an otherwise sparsely populated region that I wanted to visit. I didn’t spend much time there. Firstly because I wanted to explore it at the end of my trip, and secondly because it was raining like hell. So, after a night in a random chain motel, I drove directly west to North Dakota. And boy, what a long drive it was – 420 miles (about six hours) – of the dead-straight interstate 94. Was I disappointed or bored? Absolutely not. After leaving the busy metropolitan region of Twin Cities it was just relaxing to cruise along the quiet and excellent-quality highway. Accompanied by lots of country music, I had a great day. That’s what I like about being in America.

Eventually I arrived to the quite small city of Bismarck, which is the capital of North Dakota. The biggest (and possibly the only) attraction there is the state capitol. Surprisingly anyone can enter it without any questions or security checks. I didn’t see a single CCTV camera inside or around it. What a difference from London or NYC, where even public toilets will soon require full, airport-style security. It is one of the only few state capitols without a dome. It is actually a quite spectacular art deco skyscraper, which, with its 19 floors, is also the tallest building in the state of North Dakota. Well, to be honest it is not that great an achievement if you consider that the population of the state is less than a million (650,000 to be precise) spread over a territory larger than England and Wales combined.

Local Road North Dakota UsaThe following day I left the major interstate behind and followed local state highways on my way to Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Travelling these smaller roads you can really appreciate the size and emptiness of North Dakota. There were long moments all the way until distant horizon when I couldn’t see a single vehicle in the front or rear view mirrors.

Theodore Roosevelt NP is one of the least visited in the whole national parks system (apart from Alaska), which means no crowds whatsoever. This park offers great opportunities to see wildlife (bison, prairie dogs, feral horses, elk, white-tailed deer and more) in a really great unspoiled landscape of amazing badlands formations. They are maybe not as spectacular as those in Badlands National Park (about which later), but lack of crowds makes it a great place to relax and soak up the atmosphere of the Wild West. The only thing you can hear, when you switch off the engine of your car, is the wind. The wind, which actually never stops blowing on the Great Plains, sometimes feels like it wants to blow your head off. I spent a night in the southern unit of the park at the campground located on the banks of the Little Missouri River. A nice, quiet spot, well protected from the wind, and located right off the scenic drive.

From the park I drove south towards the Black Hills region in South Dakota. It involved more hours on the empty highways cutting in straight lines across the vast open spaces. With more country music on the radio (by then I even started recognising some songs), it was a great time indeed.

Black Hills were named as such by Native Americans because they are covered by pine forests which appear black when seen from the distance. And in relatively flat South Dakota they are visible from far away. The word ‘hills’ is rather an understatement though, because this huge granite outcrop definitely has more of a mountainous feel than some proper mountain chains. With an area of over 4,800 square miles and elevation reaching 7,242 feet above the sea level (which is the highest point between the Rocky Mountains and the Alps) this varied region offers plenty of outdoor opportunities – camping, hiking, fishing, mountain biking, you name it.

But the biggest tourist attraction there is actually man-made: the world-famous Mount Rushmore. Most people are familiar with the image of four presidents’ heads sculpted into the mountain face. The whole place has a bit of a Disneyland-ish feel (including the huge gift shop and plenty of toilets) but you definitely shouldn’t skip it. It is, after all, a uniquely American icon. The most annoying thing about it is the fact that although there is free entrance you have to pay US$10 for an annual parking permit. Why on earth would anyone need annual parking there? Well, such is life.

Another interesting attraction in the Black Hills is Crazy Horse Memorial. Not finished yet, but already quite impressive, it is another mountain carving but much, much bigger than Mount Rushmore. In fact when finished it’s going to be the largest sculpture in the world. The whole project commemorates the great chief Crazy Horse and also includes a cultural and educational centre dedicated to Native American culture and history. It is also possible to join tours of the monument itself and there are laser shows after dark.

The interior of Black Hills is criss-crossed by some spectacular scenic roads. And I really mean spectacular. Let’s take the Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway. It is a loop, over 68 miles long, which follows four different local highways. So a good map is essential. Forget the stereotypical American road – wide, straight, designed for comfortable driving – this road is curvy and narrow, actually very curvy and very narrow. In some places it is just a ribbon of tarmac wide enough for one-and-a-half cars squeezed between the rock walls and a sheer drop on the other side. There are tunnels where you have to honk before entering, so you won’t have a head-on collision with some oversized pick-up truck, and pigtail bridges where you make full 360-degree circles. In general this scenic byway is more like a Spanish or Italian mountain road than an American highway. I really had fun driving it.

Black Hills, USA. Photo: Gregor SwiderekDuring the few days I spent in the Black Hills, the weather wasn’t entirely cooperative. Rainy afternoons and evenings meant that I didn’t camp (even if I was tempted by some nicely located campgrounds) but instead used motels in Rapid City as my base. Still, I managed to hike a bit. One of the trails I do recommend is one leading to the Cathedral Spires. It starts from the small parking lot just off the SD highway 87 (part of the scenic byway) and leads to the top of some spectacular rock formations. From the top you can see even more rocky madness (spires, boulders, domes, etc.) It is a short but rather steep hike, especially the final section, where you climb some exposed rocks. If you prefer something easier, head just a few miles down the road to Sylvan Lake which offers a flat trail encircling it. Perfect for a half hour stroll, and you can still enjoy rocky scenery.

When the weather got really bad (it was raining all day long), I used my time to visit Wind Cave National Park. The major attraction there is one of the longest cave systems in the world. Based on the air movement, scientists estimate that over 200km of corridors explored so far represents only 5-10% of the whole cave system. Park rangers lead various tours throughout the underground maze. Although those tours cover only a fraction of the explored corridors they are long enough to let you understand the sheer size and beauty of the cave… and also make you tired end disoriented. It is also a really good way of escaping the rain, as you still stay close to nature but stay nice and dry.

From the Black Hills it was time to turn back east. On my way to Badlands National Park I decided to stop at the Ellsworth Air Force Base. It might sound like a strange destination but it is one of the few places in the world where you can visit a missile silo from the Cold War era. After visiting a small museum you will be driven through the active military base into disused Minuteman rocket silo. It is a surprisingly small and cramped place, and the whole experience is quite chilly. Not so many years ago thousands of similar rockets were waiting for launch command, ready to wipe out humankind from the face of the planet in a matter of minutes. Some are still there, waiting. Hopefully, nowadays people manning them are less trigger happy than in the hype of the cold war. Around the base museum you can also see some disused planes, among them the B1 bomber.

Fifty miles east of Ellsworth AFB, I finally got to probably the most spectacular destination during my entire trip – Badlands National Park. It is not a huge park by American standards but offers some great scenery. The main attractions there are multicoloured rock buttes eroded by wind and water out of soft rocks. And I mean really soft. Sometimes you can feel rocks eroding around you while you walk the trails. Unfortunately, the changing weather caused a shortening of my hiking experience. But even on a cloudy day you can still see how the rock formations change its amazing colours depending on the light. Apart from the geological wonders, Badlands NP also protects one of the largest remaining tracts of the mixed-grass prairie which once covered most of the Great Plains. It offers great contrast between deep green of the prairie (at least in spring) and red, brown, yellow or grey colours of the rocks. Scenic driving and strategically located viewpoints make exploration of the park easy – it’s easy to see it in a day. And if you are tired, hungry and thirsty you can always pop in to the world-famous Wall Drug Store, just outside the park in the small town of Wall. You can see billboards advertising the free ice water there for hundreds of miles in each direction. It started as a small local store but developed into a major tourist trap, including a few restaurants and a huge shopping emporium. Yes, it is kitsch, but offers some surprisingly entertaining shopping experiences.

One of the common misconceptions about the Great Plains is that it is a totally flat region. Nothing is more wrong. Of course there are some flat places but most of the region’s scenery is rolling hills. Nowhere is it more apparent than in Nebraska. If you look at the map of this state (in Stanfords for example), you can notice a big empty space in the middle of it, that’s the Sand Hills. The whole region is cut by just one road, Nebraska Hwy 2, also called Sand Hills Scenic Byway. It is not an extreme road like some in the Black Hills region, but more of a relaxing, gently curving one. The scenic part of the highway starts in the town of Alliance where you can visit Carhenge. It is one of those peculiar attractions which are common in the US but rare in Europe. In this case it is a reconstruction of Britain’s Stonehenge made of old cars. Weird and funny.

Carhenge, Alliance, USA. Photo: Gregor SwiderekFrom Alliance, the scenic byway continues for almost 300 miles in the east–southeast direction, crossing through the middle of the Sand Hills region. What makes the scenery of this part of the state so interesting is one of the world largest sand dunes systems. It is probably the largest dune area in the western hemisphere. Most people think of desert when they hear word dune but they are wrong. Dunes in Nebraska are actually covered by grass which makes them spectacularly green and also stabilise them to create a hilly, pastoral landscape. Highway 2 winds peacefully between these dunes, crossing small towns from time to time. One of them is Mullen in Hooker County. No, it is not me who stole the road signs with that county name on it, even if I have though about it. It was one of the most relaxing days during my trip. A lazy drive, not going anywhere in particular, just sort of floating in space. A day when I saw more cows than people. Such days, for me, are the highlights of a holiday in America.

I really recommend visiting the Great Plains to anyone who is looking for something more than just coastal America. In no other region can you appreciate how huge and sparsely populated this country really is. If I had to use one word to describe it, it would be “space”. The simple task of moving from one town to another may involve hours of driving through beautiful scenery. I absolutely love it. I love the big sky and the open horizon. And if you see it yourself you will probably fall in love too.

If you’re inspired to do such a trip, you’ll need DeLorme’s road atlases of North and South Dakota, Rand McNally’s maps of Nebraska, and North and South Dakota, while National Geographic do maps of all the US’s national parks. Moon publish a guide to Mount Rushmore and the Black Hills. Author: Gregor Swiderek

Browse our collection of maps, guides and travel literature:
> USA travel guides
> USA road maps and atlases
> Travel literature inspired by the USA

Germany – The Black Forest

Black SquirrelWe all know the song – ‘If you in down to the woods today, you are in for a big surprise…’ – well I am yet to see any teddy bears having a picnic in the Black Forest, but you do have a good chance to see black squirrels!

Until researching through an old walking book on the Black Forest, I had never heard of black squirrels. So following the book’s advice, I headed to one of Germany’s highest waterfalls – at Triberg in Schwarzwald. There is a small fee to pay to enter the woodland park around the waterfalls, with some booths selling bags of nuts – and this is the best place I can recommend to get close to the very dark brown cousins of the reds – who can be seen in this park too. Another sight of note is found a few kilometres to the north of Triberg: the largest cuckoo clock in the world! Continue reading Germany – The Black Forest

Stanfords first to stock exclusive handmade globes!

Exclusive globe-makers Bellerby & Co have chosen Stanfords to be the first shop to stock their handmade globes.

Bellerby & Co established two years ago, and their first edition globes The Britannia and The Perano are now available. Each globe is hand-coloured, the timber used for the table tops is oak up to 200 years old, while the brass is cast in Bellerby’s foundry.

The company’s owner, Peter Bellerby says, “We established with the aim of making beautiful globes affordable… Entirely handmade, they represent quality and beauty that is unrivalled.”

The Britannia map reflects contemporary country borders and boundaries and is lettered in a custom 18th-century font designed by James Mosley, a distinguished typographer who ran St Bride’s printing library in London for most of the last half of the 19th century. Continue reading Stanfords first to stock exclusive handmade globes!

Four Ways to Find Your Perfect Gap Year

You’ve decided to take a gap year. Maybe you want a career break, or you’ve just finished university. Perhaps you’ve just been made redundant or you’ve retired. Whatever your reasons for deciding to take a gap year, well done you!

Now for the fun part: where to go and what to do. I’ve put together four issues to consider, helping you pick the perfect gap year.

 

1. What is your budget?

If you live by one gap year rule and one gap year rule only, it should be this: do not go into debt. Sorry to be blunt, but there’s no point in dreaming of a luxury cruise around the world when your bank balance is telling you to spend a year as a chalet cleaner. Either get saving or get real.

Budget: minimal

Don’t worry. A limited fund is not a sure-fire way to a rubbish gap year. Find a year out that pays, or at least covers your expenses. Try teaching English abroad – you’ll get to know a destination in depth, gain a new qualification and your new CV will help you land that job when you get back. Money issues solved.

Check out Dave’s ESL Café to learn more on teaching English around the world.

Budget: moderate

Set yourself a budget and stick to it. Religiously. You want to return from your gap year refreshed and raring to go, not broke and desperate. Consider volunteering. You’ll spend less and the experience will stay with you even longer than a bad credit rating.

Read How to volunteer to find out more.

Budget: substantial

Lucky you. You’re in a position to do something really different. Set yourself a travel theme, such as ‘World’s Most Beautiful Beaches’ or ‘Top Art Galleries of the World’ and jet off to see each and every one.

Read 1000 Places To See Before You Die for inspiration. Luxury tour operators can help you arrange the trip of a lifetime too.

2. What is your travel attitude?

 

Emma cycling on Bocas del Toro, Panama © Craig FastBefore you head off on that luxury beach break to make you the envy of all your friends and give you a to-die-for tan (bleak pun intended), think carefully about what kind of things you really enjoy doing. If you force yourself to visit museums only because you think you should but actually prefer to shop, don’t be afraid to incorporate your real interests into your gap year.

Travel attitude: urban enthusiast

Whether it’s shopping, dancing or soaking up the culture, you need some bright lights in your gap year. That’s not necessarily to the exclusion of everything else of course. Cities such as Sydney and Rio de Janeiro offer everything associated with city life with the added bonus of world-class beaches. Likewise, Vancouver and Geneva are minutes away from beautiful mountain ranges perfect for skiing or trekking.

Check out guides to Sydney, Rio de Janeiro, Vancouver and Geneva, as well as Edinburgh, Bangkok, Singapore, San Franciscoand Mexico City for multi-purpose city breaks.

Travel attitude: adrenaline junkie

Whether you get that travel buzz at 13,000ft leaping out of an aeroplane or soaring through a jungle canopy on a zipline, you travel to challenge yourself. Sitting around in quaint little plazas just won’t do it for you. Turn your gap year into one long-term adventure by joining a global race such as the Mongol Rally and, in the words of the organisers of this 10,000-mile banger race, “Do a little poo on health and safety this summer…”

Brace yourself for adventure overload and check out The Adventurists’ inspirational, if slightly scary, website.

Travel attitude: spa addict

It’s all “Me, me, me” with you when it comes to travel, isn’t it? And why not? For a truly rewarding gap year, combine your love of luxury with some first-class wildlife watching, or challenge yourself to achieving new levels of nirvana on a retreat. You don’t have to blow your budget either. Whilst not exactly luxurious, a meditation course will give you relaxation skills for life and still give you that blessed-out glow. Plus, if you do it in an exotic location, such as Thailand or India, you can explore the country afterwards too.

Check out www.dhamma.org for free meditation courses around the world.

 

3. What travel experience do you have?



Callan takes a leap, Lost City trek, Colombia © Craig Fast   The kind of travelling you’ve already done should help you decide what you want to do now. You have two options: stick with what you know or try something new. I highly recommend the latter.

Experience: package holidays

If your travel experience to date has mostly been ‘call travel agent, get on plane, lie in sun, fly home,’ don’t panic at the prospect of arranging a whole year of travel. A gap year is the perfect opportunity to experience the joy of taking matters into your own hands, by researching and booking your own, tailor-made trip.

Plan your own itinerary around a continent that intrigues you.

Experience: UK only

If you’ve never left your home country you’re in for a treat! The world out there ain’t so big and scary; you just need to experience it to believe it.

Start with English-speaking Australia and New Zealand if a language barrier feels too intimidating. You can easily extend your trip in to Southeast Asia.

Experience: off the beaten track

Well done you for visiting places that most people only dream of. Traipsing around the usual sights really isn’t your thing, but have you ever thought that you might be missing out? After all, the world’s top destinations are popular for a reason.

Leave your comfort zone by joining a tour group for a week or so. You’ll glean plenty of information from the guide that you might otherwise have overlooked and will get to meet like-minded people.

 

4. Who are your travel buddies?



Your gap year experience will partly depend on whom you share it with, so choose your travel companion(s) carefully.

Travel buddy: friends and family

A year in each others pockets will test your friendship so make sure you discuss everything fully beforehand. You must want to do the same things and see the same places. Often overlooked, you need to be on a similar budget. Choose someone you can share comfortable silences with and, most importantly, someone who won’t take offence when you want to explore alone for a day or two.

Travel buddy: romantically involved

Aha. The make-or-break trip! Be sure it’s more make than break by budgeting for private rooms (with en suite), taking the time to go off and do your own things and packing ear plugs for those times when traveller’s tummy strikes in rooms with wafer-thin walls!

Travel buddy: me, myself and I

Everyone should travel solo at least once. It’s daunting but incredibly rewarding. Live by three rules: always carry a book; never be afraid to ask for help; and smile. More practically, stay in hostels when you want to meet people and pack a padlock and chain for those times when you absolutely have to leave your bag somewhere or you don’t trust a hotel/cabin door.

So there you have it. If these questions haven’t helped you pick your perfect gap year, may I suggest you spend your gap year taking a course in decisiveness? And remember, above all else, enjoy yourself. A gap year is an incredible opportunity to expand your horizons so make the most of what will surely be one of the most amazing years of your life.
About Emma
In July 2009 I left my job as editor of a large, commercial travel website to spend a year exploring India’s border regions and taking on an epic, strictly overland journey from Rio de Janeiro to Winnipeg, Canada. In 2004 I travelled overland from Holland to Singapore. I am, you see, the queen of the themed gap year, my chosen theme being, of course, overland travel. Nowadays I am a freelance travel writer and editor, running my own website, www.overlandtraveller.com, and ranting about the little niggles of life on the road at www.overlandtraveller.wordpress.com.

Author: Emma Field