I arrived in BsAs on a rapidly dwindling bank account, and despite the fact the country is in an economic crisis, they act oblivious to the fact and prices can be really high, with small chance of negotiation or special deals. However, there’s always a way – here are some tips that helped me stretch my stay in the city a bit longer:
1. You don’t have to spend a penny on many of the city’s main sights and activities.
All of these are FREE:
– Stand on Evita’s balcony on a guided tour of the government building, the Casa Rosada.
– Join a BA Free Tour with knowledgeable and entertaining local guides (see my review on my blog)
– Or just walk yourself round – get lost, soak up the atmosphere and spot diverse sights such as the Obelisco, the impressive Italianate congress building, La Boca with its multi-coloured houses, and the renovated docks area. Plus don’t miss the miles-long San Telmo market on Sundays.
– Get back to nature with a stroll around the surprisingly tranquil ecological reserve.
– Coo over the flora and fauna (read: stray cats) in the Botanical Gardens.
– See the works of internationally acclaimed artists in the Museo de Bellas Artes.
– Peruse the amazing El Ateneo bookshop in a renovated theatre.
2. Get your lunch at a kiosco – you’ll spot one of these unassuming corner shops on every block. Venture inside and you’ll be surprised to find a range of great homemade sandwiches for around AR$15 each – just see how all the locals queue out the door at lunchtimes – and you’ll save at least half of what you would pay in a café Continue reading 5 simple steps for seeing Buenos Aires on a budget
Enough about the journey, after eleven hours drive we arrived early on a chilly and damp morning at Goreme, longing for a hot breakfast and a stretch on a bed. Our host – an absolutely lovely, sincere and genuine elderly man who runs his family business with a little help of his hot-air-ballon-business-occupied son and his stunningly gorgeous daughter-in-law. It was a simple establishment but extremely welcoming. Emre, the host, after asking what we would like for breakfast, got on his motorbike to get fresh ingredients for menemen – a type of omelet with garlic, hot green peppers and tomatoes baked in a clay pot. That was served with soft and fragrant Turkish bread and a glass of instant coffee. I must admit that was the best breakfast of my life. 
Before we managed to get to the open air museum, a monastery with cave churches, we couldn’t resist but pop into a cave cafe. It was a rainy and chilly day and we were definitely in need of tea and something sugary. My choice was Kemal Pasha (not to be confused with Mustafa Kemal Pasha) – a dessert that tastes heavenly. A few baked balls of dough soaked in sugary syrup washed down with Turkish tea drank from an ever so delicate tulip-shaped glass improved my mood no end. I was ready to face the enemy – the unpleasant weather in the open air museum. The museum was great, but the tastes, views and smells of that day will stay with me longer.
The rest of the day was glorious; weather and sightseeing wise. Ihlara valley was next on the itinerary and it struck us with its beauty. It is the most well known out of Cappadocia valleys, and no wonder. Greeting the two playful donkeys on our trek we reconnected with nature. Another valley we had a chance to look at from above was the Pigeon Valley dotted with man-made caves. It was the highlight of the day for me, especially when our guide explained the controversy over the use of the caves. They have been used by people for centuries, but now UNESCO claims that people should stay away from them as they are pigeons’ habitat. And then I saw melancholy in the guide’s eyes. They were looking glazed over at the fatherland; the voice expressed injustice while uttering the words: “…as if people were not important”.
Our first point of call after dumping our luggage in our small, but clean room, was to visit JJ’s Brazilian BBQ Restaurant for some much needed food. As we sat outside enjoying dinner and a few beers, our conversation was often drowned out by the sound of motorbikes zooming past, which was a sign of things to come. We then took a stroll up and down the main shopping street and checked out the Ben Thanh Market. We spent most of our time trying to dodge motorbikes at junction crossings, and also those cyclists who couldn’t be bothered waiting at the lights and decided that the pavement was a more viable option. This was the perfect time to turn in for the night.
That night we popped into BBQ Square for dinner and drinks and caught some of the English Premiership football. It was worth the price of the meal alone to watch Sharon slowly and stubbornly make her way through a chicken fried rice dish with chopsticks. After dinner we headed to the night market to see what bargains we could pickup. I made some new friends at one of the stalls, a mother and daughter combo. Within a few minutes, I was sitting on a stool in their tent and trying to drum up some custom for them, as the daughter tried to locate me a ‘Good Morning Vietnam’ vest. I love a bargain and ended up purchasing 3 vests for a total of £10, before heading home for the night a happy man.
The minute I got off the bus at the bus-cum-train station I was once again accosted by people offering accommodation. I negotiated a room with a man who agreed to wait while I sorted out a train ticket for a sleeper to Zagreb for the following night. The man assured me that the room he was offering me was only a 15-20 minute walk from the station, and indeed it was, in a Tito-era block, in his mother’s tiny flat. He rattled off various things I might find useful and then left again. His mother, probably in her late 60s and with no apparent English, insisted on sitting me down with a slice of her apple strudel; no hardship on my part – it was delicious.