India: From Kolkata to Varanasi

KolkataMaybe it wasn’t an obvious choice of first destination for a couple of first time travellers who like their home comforts, but actually Kolkata was not the terrifying culture shock people warned us about. Yes, we walked out of the airport to find a road made virtually uncrossable by unpredictable yellow taxis; we took said taxi in a seat-clutching ride across town seeing people cycling with boxes of chillies on their heads and live chickens tied to their handlebars; we were greeted in the streets by mothers begging for milk powder and packs of yellow dogs and men sleeping on the pavements. Yes, it was a million miles away, but amid this melee of people and smells and confusion, we found a city of incredibly beautiful buildings and parks, some of the best street food of the trip, and so many smiling faces: a girl who taught us Indian classical dancing in the Victoria Memorial gardens, a couple of street kids who we shared a lassi with, parents and children shaking ours hands at a Kali festival we happened to catch.

Kolkata street foodIt wasn’t just that Kolkata allowed us to jump into another culture headfirst, it also allowed us to meet other travellers, get advice, make plans. There is definitely a district for travellers, and lucky for us, most of them had been around for a while. Trains were all explained, haggling (although we never really mastered that), the head wobble. We ended up travelling with a guy we met on the first day for three weeks. Really (and I hate to admit it) it does help to have a man around in India. They just get more respect. Annoying but true.

Kolkata childrenFrom Kolkata it was an overnight train to Darjeeling. The trains are really something. The queues for the tickets are utterly bewildering, but as long as you stand your ground as aggressively as everyone else pushes it shouldn’t take too long! The train itself is the best place to meet people. There’s always one man who takes charge of the conversation. Warning- he is usually the one that snores the loudest. You can buy everything under the sun. On that first train journey we counted 33 items that you could purchase, including yo-yo, statues of Ganesh, and nail clippers. Continue reading India: From Kolkata to Varanasi

His and Hers Guide to the Globe – Part 6: Mui Ne

Matt and Sharon Ward recently spent a few days in Mui Ne, Vietnam. Here’s what they had to say about their stay from a his and hers perspective…

The 5-hour bus journey up the east coast of Vietnam from Saigon was packed full of near misses, a distinct lack of seats, and a police pullover. The driver appeared to be more focused on speaking on his mobile than the safety of the passengers and we could both see the headlines about two British backpackers being involved in a road accident. After what could only be described as the worst travel experience of both our lives, we finally arrived at the Zenora Beach Resort, Mui Ne.

His Guide:

The first thing to do after our eventful bus journey was to dump our bags in our room and head down to the pool for a swim to help us unwind. Our resort appeared to be very quiet and felt like paradise compared to our previous accommodations. But due to the price, and being on a budget, we decided to only stay here for a couple of nights, before moving next door to the cheaper option, Austria House Backpackers. Continue reading His and Hers Guide to the Globe – Part 6: Mui Ne

Malta’s Hidden History

Valletta skylineDebbie Valentine explores the cultural side of the sunny island of Malta.

The tiny island of Malta, basking in the Mediterranean sun, is not the first place you might think of for a cultural holiday. It has a reputation for being full of retired Brits sunning themselves, but if you dig a little deeper you’ll find some amazing history and beautiful things to see.

With over 7000 years of history, Malta is home to some of the most important and fascinating archaeological sites in the world. The ancient temples of Mnajdra, Ġgantija and Ħaġar Qim date from around 3000BC and are huge sites – Maltese locals thought they were the work of giants.

The most famous ancient Maltese site is the Hypogeum, a vast underground chamber, used as a temple and burial site. More than 5500 years old, the impressive structure is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Reaching down to more than 10 metres below the ground there is a lot to discover about Malta’s ancient history. Tickets to visit the site are limited, for conservation reasons, so make sure you book ahead if you want to visit. Continue reading Malta’s Hidden History

The London Marathon

Marathon runnersWith the London marathon approaching on Sunday, Molly Loeffler takes a look at the history of this great British sporting event.

The idea for the London Marathon was born in 1978 in a pub next to Richmond Park. Ex-Olympians John Disley and the late Chris Brasher were in the Dysart Arms listening to people talking about the New York Marathon. After hearing about the amazing atmosphere and experience their fellow runners had at the New York Marathon, Disley and Brasher decided to enter the 1979 race.

The ex-Olympians were astounded by the marathon. They loved how the entire city was involved with the course going by major New York attractions and thousands of cheering spectators lining the streets. Once they returned to London, Brasher wrote an article entitled ‘The World’s Most Human Race’ for The Observer and discussed how he believed the New York Marathon brought people together in a family sort of way. At the end of the article, he questioned whether London could ever host such an event.

The editor of The Observer, Donald Trelford, decided to take this article as an invitation to start considering the idea of a London Marathon. In 1980, Trelford organized a lunch for Brasher and Disley to meet authorities that would be involved in planning a marathon – the general consensus was that a London Marathon was an idea worth looking into.

A couple of weeks later, Disley finished and presented a course design that edged along the Thames and only closed two bridges. The course was approved by police and the tourist board was very pleased with it because it displayed many London sights including Cutty Sark, Tower Bridge, the Docks, The Embankment, Big Ben and Buckingham Palace.

After visiting the US again to learn more about marathon planning and financing, Brasher prepared a £75,000 budget. Realizing that they could not pay for this themselves, they received a stroke of luck when Gillette, who was looking for a new sporting event to sponsor, offered to sponsor for three years. 

Once they had established funding and charitable status for the marathon, Disley and Brasher composed 6 aims for the London Marathon:

    • To improve the overall standard and status of British marathon running by providing a fast course and strong international competition.
    • To show mankind that, on occasions, they can be united.
    • To raise money for sporting and recreational facilities in London.
    • To help boost London’s tourism.
    • To prove that ‘Britain is best’ when it comes to organising major events.
    • To have fun, and provide some happiness and sense of achievement in a troubled world.


20,000 people applied to run the inaugural race on 29 March 1981, but only 7,747 were accepted. 6,255 finished the race and American Dick Beardsley and Norwegian Inge Simonsen were the first to finish the race crossing the finish line hand in hand. The women’s race was won by 43 year old and mother of two Joyce Smith, who also broke the British record. Just as Disley and Brasher had hoped, thousands of people lined the streets to cheer on the runners and thousands more watched on BBC. The race has gained popularity and size over the years and 882,946 runners have finished the marathon since 1981 and it is televised in over 150 countries all over the world.

The course has changed many times over the 31 year history. The first marathon finished on Constitution Hill. Since then, the finished line has been on Westminster Bridge, and is currently on The Mall. 

While charities’ role in the London Marathon was not very prominent in the beginning, more than three quarters of all competitors now run for a good cause. The London Marathon named its first official charity in 1984 and gave the Sports Aid Foundation entry places to help their fundraising. Since then, the marathon has had one or two official charities every year. They have also introduced the Gold and Silver Bond schemes to help charities gain places and raise money through the marathon. With these schemes, runners can sign up for the marathon through these charities once regular sign up has ended. 1,300 charities are involved with these bond schemes.

The London Marathon broke world records in 2007 when runners raised £46.5 million for charity making the marathon the largest single annual fundraising event in the world. The Guinness world record was broken again in 2008 when £46.7 million was raised.

The 2013 London Marathon is on Sunday 21st April and is sponsored by Virgin for the fourth consecutive year. Visit virginlondonmarathon.com for course maps, runner information, spectator information and any other marathon information that you might need. Best of luck to everyone running it!

Isobel goes to India Part 3: Celebrating Diwali in Amritsar

In the third post of her blog series on India, Isobel Wilson Cleary heads to Amritsar for Diwali.

Taking a last minute trip North to spend Diwali with the family of another volunteer who live in Delhi was one of the highlights of my time in India and a lot of that is thanks to the quick weekend getaway we did further North to the Punjab which I’d definitely recommend as a slightly less trodden tourist path than the Golden Triangle or Kerala. 

Diwali is the biggest festival of the year in India and the fanfare to which it arrives reminded me a lot of the pomp and circumstance Christmas enjoys here in the Europe and the U.S.A.  Not simply because it seems to be celebrated by everyone regardless of religion. Along with the luxury selection of chocolates and nuts at pride of place in supermarket entrances we also learnt that just like home, there is very real possibility that suddenly travelling is a much costlier affair than you might first have thought.

Train ticket costs do go up but they’re still very reasonable for the distance and length of time you actually spend on them. If like me you’re unsure of where you’re going, who you’re going with or when exactly you are going then there’s the distinct possibility that you won’t be able to find any tickets at all. I’d heard that you really needed to get a head start if you wanted trains and I foolishly assumed a month prior was enough time. Around Diwali this simply isn’t true, there weren’t any available tickets except for the frantically last minute TatKal quota (which is quite like ebay-sniping and requires high-speed internet, something not in abundance where I was) or the possibility of tourist quota where you find out the day before whether you actually have tickets or not.

Safe to say we decided booking the flights to Delhi was the more costly but sensible option. In the end it was about the same cost as a cheap flight from the UK to Europe and there’s no need to pay extra to check baggage in with a generous 20kg limit! Continue reading Isobel goes to India Part 3: Celebrating Diwali in Amritsar

Covent Garden – Top Attractions

Our intern Molly Loeffler shares her favourite things to do in the bustling area surrounding our flagship store in Covent Garden.

apple market

From shopping to eating to enjoying a show, our local neighborhood of Covent Garden is a vibrant area with so much to do.

The Markets

One of the main draws to Covent Garden is the markets. Surrounding the main piazza, the markets are open everyday and sell just about anything you would ever need! The Apple Market is about 40 stalls in the famous Inigo Jones designed market and is open everyday specialising in antiques on Mondays and arts and crafts from Tuesday to Sunday. The East Colonnade Market is on the eastern part of the main piazza and sells a variety of things from hand-made soap, confectionery, and even has a magician’s stall. The third main market of Covent Garden is the Jubilee Market. During weekdays, the market is open from 9:30-6:00pm. On Mondays the market specializes in antiques, and Tuesday-Friday it is a general market selling everything from household goods to handmade clothing. During the weekends the market is open from 9-6pm and specializes in arts and crafts. Continue reading Covent Garden – Top Attractions

Walking in Mallorca

The Canaletta from the GR221

Author Charles Davis’s blog series on walking in Spain continues with an update on walking in the mountains of Mallorca.

As the Mallorcan walking season gets into swing, I find my mind turning to pigs. This may not seem very promising as a premise for a piece about mountains. After all, the appeal of the pig when it comes to the outward bound business is limited. 

I once had a close encounter with a sounder of wild boar in a barranco in central Spain that put enough wind up me to inflate a hot air balloon. Moreover, the famous patas negras that are transformed into all those delicious hams in Andalusia have put me off my picnic on several occasions with their intrusive curiosity – it’s a bit infra dig, tucking into your pan con tomate and  jamon serrano while the comestible’s cousin looks on, edging ever nearer in case you might be doing something interesting. As for the wild pigs of Corsica, they are notorious for staging carefully planned raiding parties on unsuspecting tourists who happen to be in possession, albeit briefly, of a hamper. One of these beasts left a friend of mine traumatized for life when it cornered him in his hire car, placed its trotters on the bonnet, and proceeded to eyeball him through the windscreen while my mate prudently reversed down the mountain, pursued by pig Continue reading Walking in Mallorca

Italy by Train

Venice

Our intern Molly Loeffler spent Spring break travelling Italy with some classmates. Here are her tips for saving money travelling by train….

For Spring break, myself and two friends wanted to explore as much of Italy in 10 days as we possibly could! We decided to start in Milan and head south, flying home out of Naples. Once we figured out the general direction we needed to go, we planned our route by train, trying to budget as much as possible. We purchased Eurail passes online so we could get most train tickets for free or at a discounted rate, which was hard for us to find with other train deals because we are not EU citizens. 

venice

We landed in a very snowy Milan and got on our first train to Venice. Thanks to our Eurail pass, the ticket that would have cost us about £35, cost us only about £9.Venice was overcast but this could not spoil the beauty of the island. The gorgeous canals, bridges and brightly coloured buildings were a wonderful sight to walk out of the train station to.Venice’s winding and narrows streets can be confusing but thanks to the Italian I learned in school, I eventually navigated us to our hostel on the Piazza di Santa Margherita! As we were there off season Venice there were very few people walking around as we visited the famous sites like the Piazza di San Marco and San Marco’s Basilica. We considered taking a gondola ride, but it cost about 80 euro and the water was very choppy so we decided not to. Our final stop was the Rialto Bridge, which is the oldest bridge in Venice built in 1181. Continue reading Italy by Train

5 simple steps for seeing Buenos Aires on a budget

La Boca shops

I arrived in BsAs on a rapidly dwindling bank account, and despite the fact the country is in an economic crisis, they act oblivious to the fact and prices can be really high, with small chance of negotiation or special deals. However, there’s always a way – here are some tips that helped me stretch my stay in the city a bit longer:

1. You don’t have to spend a penny on many of the city’s main sights and activities.

San Telmo marketAll of these are FREE:

– Stand on Evita’s balcony on a guided tour of the government building, the Casa Rosada.
– Join a BA Free Tour with knowledgeable and entertaining local guides (see my review on my blog)

– Or just walk yourself round – get lost, soak up the atmosphere and spot diverse sights such as the Obelisco, the impressive Italianate congress building, La Boca with its multi-coloured houses, and the renovated docks area. Plus don’t miss the miles-long San Telmo market on Sundays.

– Get back to nature with a stroll around the surprisingly tranquil ecological reserve.
– Coo over the flora and fauna (read: stray cats) in the Botanical Gardens.
– See the works of internationally acclaimed artists in the Museo de Bellas Artes.
– Peruse the amazing El Ateneo bookshop in a renovated theatre.

2. Get your lunch at a kiosco – you’ll spot one of these unassuming corner shops on every block. Venture inside and you’ll be surprised to find a range of great homemade sandwiches for around AR$15 each – just see how all the locals queue out the door at lunchtimes – and you’ll save at least half of what you would pay in a café Continue reading 5 simple steps for seeing Buenos Aires on a budget

Cappadocia – Land of Wonders

GoremeKasia Nowicka visits Cappodocia, an area of natural wonders in the Central Anatolian region ofTurkey.

Going to Turkey for the first time, my priority was to explore Istanbul. But luckily my fellow travellers were looking beyond that city and decided to go to Cappadocia – the land of wonders. Trusting my friends’ instinct, we eagerly bought return tickets for a night coach heading to the heart of Anatolia.

Now, you might ask why not the train? Well, that’s just the way it is – when in Turkey, travel by coach. In fact, there are two reasons: first – the train tickets are cheaper indeed, but the journey might take four times as long as the coach; second – the road system is much better developed than the railways, and frankly, the tarmac is in superb condition ensuring a smooth journey. Besides, who would give up a trip by coach that is almost comparable to the Orient Express? The passengers are very well looked after, and despite travelling at night the coach attendant makes sure you eat and drink well and your hands are refreshed every couple of hours. Apart from sampling a variety of Turkish cakes, we were introduced to an exceptional invention specially made, it seemed, for coaches. It was a long sachet, the type of 3-in-1 coffee, that was both a tea bag and a stirrer at the same time.

Ihlara ValleyEnough about the journey, after eleven hours drive we arrived early on a chilly and damp morning at Goreme, longing for a hot breakfast and a stretch on a bed. Our host – an absolutely lovely, sincere and genuine elderly man who runs his family business with a little help of  his hot-air-ballon-business-occupied son and his stunningly gorgeous daughter-in-law. It was a simple establishment but extremely welcoming. Emre, the host, after asking what we would like for breakfast, got on his motorbike to get fresh ingredients for menemen – a type of omelet with garlic, hot green peppers and tomatoes baked in a clay pot. That was served with soft and fragrant Turkish bread and a glass of instant coffee. I must admit that was the best breakfast of my life. 

Despite the tiredness, we ventured into town in search of ‘tourist attractions’. Despite its location and beauty, Goreme seemed to be a calm and quiet place. The many houses were nicely displayed at the foot of the surrounding hills. Our first stop was supposed to be an open air museum, but we got distracted by the intricate beauty of locally produced ceramics. Each plate and vase displayed a legacy of this such far but such close culture. The owner soon noticed our enthusiasm and invited us inside. No, not to talk us into a purchase but to show the premises of his workshop and tell us a little about his work. We saw a few masterpieces but I was mainly struck by the eyes of the master. His big dark eyes were inhabited by deep melancholy that immediately reminded me of the term ‘huzun’ Orhan Pamuk uses in one of his books. It turned out later that this sort of melancholic gaze would accompany me for the rest of the trip.

doll seller cappadociaBefore we managed to get to the open air museum, a monastery with cave churches, we couldn’t resist but pop into a cave cafe. It was a rainy and chilly day and we were definitely in need of tea and something sugary. My choice was Kemal Pasha (not to be confused with Mustafa Kemal Pasha) – a dessert that tastes heavenly. A few baked balls of dough soaked in sugary syrup washed down with Turkish tea drank from an ever so delicate tulip-shaped glass improved my mood no end. I was ready to face the enemy – the unpleasant weather in the open air museum. The museum was great, but the tastes, views and smells of that day will stay with me longer.

The next day was a time for an escapade to underground cities scattered around the region. We took up an offer from a tour company for a very reasonable price as the owner was a friend of our host, Emre. The day started on a more positive note but dark clouds were looming in the distance. When we arrived at the Dirinkuyu Underground City we just managed to escape the rain. Walking through the labyrinth of corridors, the guide familiarised us with the history of the place, including the fact that it could shelter around 20,000 people at a time. Leaving the underground city, the sun welcomed us radiantly as well as several local women trying to sell us hand-made cloth dolls. They were shouting 10 lira, then 5 lira, and when there was still no interest, they lowered the price to 1 lira. I wanted to buy one just to support these clearly very poor women, but my reason was telling me that I didn’t need a doll. Now my heart is saying that I should have got one, to support them and have a fabulous and original souvenir.

valley viewThe rest of the day was glorious; weather and sightseeing wise. Ihlara valley was next on the itinerary and it struck us with its beauty. It is the most well known out of Cappadocia valleys, and no wonder. Greeting the two playful donkeys on our trek we reconnected with nature. Another valley we had a chance to look at from above was the Pigeon Valley dotted with man-made caves. It was the highlight of the day for me, especially when our guide explained the controversy over the use of the caves. They have been used by people for centuries, but now UNESCO claims that people should stay away from them as they are pigeons’ habitat. And then I saw melancholy in the guide’s eyes. They were looking glazed over at the fatherland; the voice expressed injustice while uttering the words: “…as if people were not important”.

Leaving Cappadocia I was not ready to say good-bye. I will definitely return, at least to buy my doll souvenir.