In part 4 of her blog series on India, Isobel Wilson-Cleary talks us through the highlights of her stay in Delhi.
Delhi. It’s a big place and if like me, you’re only there for a few short days you maybe want to see some of its biggest hits. Not as large as megacity Mumbai but big enough that these are the highlights of what I got up to whilst I was there. (And definitely check out the metro system!)
If you’re interested in seeing the everyday reality for many in India…
Chandi Chowk should be top of your list. Boasting the Jama el Masjid and Red Fort which brings in busloads of tourists it is also the sight of a major Jain temple (with a bird sanctuary!) and gurdwara – a little microcosm of India in a few square miles. More people than you’d ever imagine crammed in such a small space wandering the streets is an experience not to be missed – try some street food; engage in some bargaining if something catches your eye (and it probably will the market is impressive) and pay the extra to go up the minaret (signs tells you women and children must be accompanied by a male) and see where you’ve just come from, it’s pretty hard to believe that this is some people’s everyday.
If you want to see some colonial history…
Check out India Gate and Lutyen’s Delhi– not really a gate at all but a war memorial inscribed with names of fallen soldiers from the British Indian Army and the various government buildings built during the 1930s. Hardly any traffic here either so possibly one of the only times you’ll be able to walk down the road and not be worried about being hit by a vehicle (or animal) in five different directions. A short walk away is a couple of the many museums Delhi has to offer; Jaipur House houses an impressive modern art collection dating from the arrival of the East India company to the present day and is well worth a visit and the National Museum.
If you want to see a little bit of all corners of India but don’t have the time…
Dilli Haat is a great artisan market area with crafts from all corners of India on sale (and somethings you can find anywhere) for fairly reasonable prices. Many different organisations and co-operatives have stalls where they sell clothes, scarves, cosmetics, shoes, bags – you name it, you’ll probably find it. As well as fried momos (Tibetan dumplings) and a cultural programme engaging the general public in the arts and social issues.
If you’re looking for a bargain…
Try Surojini Nagar market. Every weekday it has a host of permanent and pop-up stalls with everything you’d ever need; from 100 rupee printed kurtas to unmarked high-street seconds which have barely put a foot wrong but missed out on quality control it’s hard to resist such a bargain. Arrive early (10.30) to scout out the best stalls as many sell similar things, be prepared to haggle hard and avoid hawkers who arrive just before lunch and clutter the small streets lined with shops. Don’t settle for anything more than half the first-named cost (unless it’s those 100 rupee racks out front!)
If you’re feeling artistic…
Hauz Khas is for you. Tucked away up a hill, named for the fort it sits upon and the lake you can see from the many rooftop restaurants the area is known for. The narrow winding streets are filled with boutique clothing and jewelry stores selling vintage and slightly quirkier items such as Green the Gap, an upcycle store where I got a rubber tyre wallet, as well as antique hordes that still sell what the area is historically famous for – Bollywood film posters which were made here- amongst many, many other things. Such a popular tourist destination, there’s unfortunately no getting around the overpriced rickshaw ride you’ll have to endure – Delhi autowallahs are particularly notorious for not using their meter.
If you’re looking to get out of the city…
Agra should be your first choice and thanks to the opening of the Yamuna highway late last summer it only takes an hour and a half* to get there. The major draw here is the Taj Mahal and rightly so, you won’t find anything else like it, but it’s also sobering to see what was once the country’s capital as nothing more than a thoroughfare to get to the grandest expression of love created in marble. Definitely stop off and try barfi from one of the many street stalls and if you have the time check out Fatehpursikri – the home of Shah Jahans father and 30 kilometres in the other direction – for a quick lesson on Mughal architecture but make sure you or someone you know is knowledgable of where they’re going; in Agra, all roads lead to the Taj.
- If you would like to know more about Isobel’s trip please visit:
- www.everyclick.com/isobelgoestoindia
- www.developmentinaction.org
- www.deepgriha.org
- >You can read Isobel’s other posts here:
- Isobel goes to India
- First Impressions
- Celebrating Diwali in Amritsar
> Want to find out more about India? Take a look at our collection of maps and travel guides.