Images of Peru, more often than not Machu Picchu, adorn countless travel publications and newspaper supplements. Consequently, deepest darkest Peru has become readily accessible, and the track so well beaten that it can be difficult to get off of. Such popularity however, is not without good reason, and the jewels in Peru’s tourism crown live up their reputation spectacularly whether you want to climb them, or just walk around them in awe, mountain-junkies should head for Huaraz.
Around 200km north of Lima and nestled amongst the Cordilleras Blanca & Negra, Huaraz is a hive of adventure sport activity. It’s probably worth spending a few days in the town, if only to acclimatize to the thin Andean air. You could do a lot worse than staying at Jo’s Place, run by an ex-pat from Southampton who’s even been known to video Champions’ League games while football-obsessed Englishmen are away trekking in the mountains! The trails that criss-cross the Cordilleras are easy to follow, but take in passes around the 5000m mark and so can be quite tough. Treks of up to a week can easily be organized on Huaraz’s main drag with one of numerous activity agencies (I’d highly recommend Monttrek, but there are plenty to choose from).
If you’re unsure whether you’re up to a long trek, try doing a day walk up to the crystal clear waters of Lago Churup. A short bus ride from the centre of town takes you to the start of a well-marked track; you can be up and down within a few hours, and apart from the final scramble to the lake the walking is straightforward with great views. If you’re trekking around Huaraz, stick a copy of Matthew Parris’s Inca Kola in the pack, though it might make you jumpy about mountain banditos!
In the south of the country, the ancient Inca capital of Cusco will invariably be your base for any trek to Machu Picchu. Constantly teeming with tourists and backpackers, it can be a tad overwhelming. La Bodega, a small café/bar just out of the centre is a good place to get your bearings to some good tunes and cocktails, while nearby Greens serves up excellent curries.
Although Machu Picchu is undoubtedly the Sacred Valley’s star attraction, the region is riddled with interesting archeological sites. Spend a few soles on a combined entry visitor ticket and explore the less visited ruins in Pisac or Ollantaytambo.
For a good reliable guide stick with the famous Footprint Handbook to Peru, and if you want to become even more acquainted with the country read Mario Vargas Llosa’s “Death in the Andes”, unfortunately now out of print, but defintely worth seeking out. As for a map, use the Rough Guide to Peru edition, it is cheap and uses the excellent Reise Know-How Verlag cartography.
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Author: Dan Weston