In the third and final instalment of her series on Montevideo, Rachel Ricks looks at the quirkier side of the Uruguayan capital.
The capital of Uruguay tends to get overshadowed by its Argentine neighbour Buenos Aires. But if you’re looking for something a little bit different, head to this compact and friendly city just across the River Plate – it’s got a weird and wonderful array of sights and things to do…
1. Gaze at the Palacio Salvo
Stare up at the eccentric design of the former Palacio Salvo Hotel in Plaza Independencia. Now converted into apartments, it seems a shame this Baroque building – the icon of Montevideo – can’t still be a hotel. It would’ve been a remarkable place to stay.
2. Downton Abbey, Montevideo style
Get the Downton Abbey experience at the Palacio Taranco and Museo de Artes Decorativas (25 de Mayo 376; free entry) – the former home of a wealthy early 20th century family, where you can roam grand rooms decorated with French and Spanish art and furnishings. And, unlike many stately homes, you can also peek behind the servants’ doors – the kitchen has the biggest cooking range I’ve ever seen.
3. Go shopping… in a prison
Get some retail therapy or see a film in a former prison at Punta Carretas Shopping centre. In its previous life, there was a famous jailbreak in 1971 where members of a Robin Hood-esque gang tunnelled through to emerge in the living room of a house across the street. The jail was converted in 1994 into a pleasant mall with two cinemas.
4. See a key figure of Constructivism’s work
Admire the peculiar murals and sculptures of Lithuanian Jewish immigrant José Gurvich in the endearing Museo Gurvich (Plaza de la Constitución; free entry on Tuesdays; www.museogurvich.org). Gurvich was a student of Torres García,Uruguay’s most famous artist (to whom there is also a museum dedicated, at Sarandi 683; www.torresgarcia.org.uy).
5. Take a paddle at Pocitos
Swim in the sea and lounge by sand dunes on the beach in the neighbourhood of Pocitos – it’s hard to remember you’re still in the capital city with its clean sand and calm water; it’s surprisingly not too crowded, either.
6. Honour diversity, honour life
See the first monument inSouth Americadedicated to sexual diversity, erected in 2005 on Policia Vieja, in the old town. It reads: “Honouring diversity is honouring life;Montevideois for the respect of all identities and sexual orientations.”
7. Chomp down a chivito
Try to finish an enormous chivito in one of the stalwart café-bars of this city. See my Montevideo Café Guide for my top tips.
8. La Comercial del Este
Stare in awe at La Comercial del Este – inside the lobby of the Presidential Building in Plaza Independencia, this is an amazing reconstruction of the last horse-drawn stagecoach that travelled between Montevideo and Maldonado in 1910. The horses from a distance look like they’re made of metal, but on closer inspection are in fact crafted out entirely of shells, animal bones, feathers and twigs all sourced from the natural environment that the stagecoach would have traversed between the two cities. The way the artists have managed to convey even the expressions of each horse using only these materials is inspiring.
9. Show your love with a padlock
Add your padlock to The Fountain of Locks – an extraordinary display of lovers’ undying love on the railings surrounding this unassuming fountain on Avenida 18 de Julio at the end of Calle Yi. The plaque says: “The legend of this young fountain tells us that if a lock with the initials of two people in love is placed in it, they will return together to the fountain and their love will be forever locked.”
10. Ramble along the Ramblas
Take a seemingly endless stroll along the Ramblas, the seafront promenade which stretches 13 miles from the port out to the beach suburbs of the city. Stop at Playa Ramirez for a paddle, or cross the road to the small fairground on the edge of Parque Rodo.
11. Submerge below General Artigas
Submerge below the gigantic statue of General Artigas in the middle of the Plaza Independencia to see the mausoleum of a figure who did more than most to achieve Uruguayan independence. His resting place in this subterranean space is permanently attended by two uniformed and armed guards.
There are plenty more interesting and unusual sights in Montevideo- for more information on the city’s museums, attractions and events, see the Montevideo government’s Cultura website (you’ll need some Spanish knowledge to read it though). Also, see my cultural guide to Montevideo.
You can read more about Rachel’s travels on her blog.
> Make the most of Montevideo’s attractions with our range of travel guides and maps.
All photos © Rachel Ricks