Situated in the north-west Russian state of Karelia, Kizhi is perhaps best known as one of Russia’s 20 or so UNESCO world heritage sites. A narrow, 6km-long island situated in Lake Onega, Kizhi is a Karelian cultural and nature museum reserve, aesthetically blessed with centuries-old wooden structures; from the tiny Church of the Resurrection of Lazarus, reputedly the oldest surviving chapel in Russia, via largely unspoilt domestic buildings, to the resplendent giant 30-domed Transfiguration Church.
Most visitors arrive on a large cruise ship and are generally taken on a limited, albeit informative tour, but I have been lucky enough to visit the island independently, from Petrozavodsk, on a number of occasions when the season is open (June-September) and the lake is both unfrozen and tame enough for water transport. It’s a well appreciated phenomenon that the inland water of Lake Onega is so affected by the weather, being the second largest lake in Europe, that the locals compare it’s weather patterns to those of a somewhat volatile ocean. Believe me, I’m not over egging the pudding. I travelled on Lake Onega as the season was drawing to a close in mid-September and had to sit next to somebody who made full use of the sick bag on the choppy waters.
My advice to those arriving on the island is to see both halves of the island. Once boats have docked passengers are taken through a small selection of souvenir stalls and then veer off to the right, to the more structured museum route around the island. Each of the buildings has its own delight, from bell towers to merchants’ houses, from windmills to banyas (bathhouses/saunas). With the lake gently lapping the shore and the buildings sitting majestically beside it you can shut out the crowds and imagine the peace that must have had dominion here when Karelian master craftsmen were plying their trade and constructing the marvels around you. A reflection of this peace still returns, in part, at the end of each long summer’s day when the last cruise ship pulls away…
The left-hand turn from the jetty will bring you into a less controlled nature reserve, with grasses left to grow, meadows full of butterflies and a more scattered village of traditional buildings, including a blacksmith’s forge. You may even happen upon a dusty football pitch where in recent summers Father Nikolai, the Orthodox incumbent of the island, has played a match or two with the locals.
Il’in Day, at the start of August, sees the islands’ seasoned and seasonal locals sand down their rowing boats and leave their dachas for the day to participate in a round-the-island boat race. Both children and hardy oarsmen pull with their all. Traditional cakes, costumes, music and colourful festivities meet them at the finishing line. When I was there in the summer of 2006, the winner received a live pig as his prize. Whether this was intended as a pet or as supper was unclear.
My insider tip, unless things have drastically changed, is to go to the toilet on the boat before you land. I’ll say no more!
And try and visit as the sun is setting over the lake because, as the orange-pink, peach melba light of a dimming summer’s day catches the aspen domes on the Transfiguration Church, the accordion of colour you see will simply take your breath away.
I recommend the following products from Stanfords for a trip in this area of Russia: the Reise Know-How map of Western Russia, Lonely Planet’s St Petersburg City Guide, a Russian Phrasebook, and Russia – A Journey to the Heart of a Land and its People.
Author: Sam Golding