Caroline Sandes continues her trip around Iran travelling from Kashan to Eshafan stopping off at a nuclear facility along the way….
Thanks to the persuasions of a guide, Hossein, who had been at the one of the lovely houses of Kashan I’d visited the previous day, I had decided on the option of him driving me from Kashan to Esfahan so as to take in a few sites I wouldn’t be able to get to otherwise. Thanks to the exchange rate of the rial, this particular luxury was not just affordable but positively cheap. I also knew it would involve going right past one of the most supposedly notorious places of Iran – the nuclear facility at Natanz.
He collected me from my hotel at 8am – a friend of his, an artist, was doing the driving so I was able to sit in the back and admire the scenery without worrying about coming up with intelligent conversation. The first stop was an archaeological site that was a last minute addition to the trip because a teacher I’d met the day before said I must visit it. Tepe Sialk is, archaeologists are almost sure, a ziggurat that was built around 3000 BC, which would make it one of the oldest ziggurats in the Middle East. It looks mostly like a large hillock but the shape, blurred as it is by weathering and caked mud, is suspiciously unnatural. Excavations that have happened sporadically over many decades, have uncovered all sorts of things, some of which are displayed in a small museum on the site. Hossein had in fact worked there on a couple of the excavation seasons, and was keen for me to talk to the aged museum supervisor, who spoke French, thanks to working for many years with French excavation teams. Regrettably my spoken French is hopeless; Hossein was clearly disappointed that I couldn’t talk with the supervisor, as was I.
From there it was on to the famous Bagh-e Fin gardens. Built for Shah Abbas I, in the late sixteenth century and the oldest surviving gardens in Iran, they are now part of Iran’s World Heritage gardens. The entrance to them is door in a high wall, but inside is a paradise of tinkling water, trees, greenery and the same graceful architecture with its beautiful wall paintings as seen in the houses in Kashan. It was late February so still somewhat wintery but the gardens must be lovely when the roses and other flowers are in bloom. The gardens were also the scene of the assassination of the popular Mirza Taqi Khan, a moderniser and prime minister between 1848 and 1851. Rather bizarrely, the murder is carefully depicted using Madam Tussaud-type wax models in one of the bathhouses… Continue reading Kashan to Esfahan