By Denis Costello, co-author of Walking Safaris of South Africa
Wandering in the tracks of African megafauna in deep wilderness is the essence of the walking safari experience and in the safe hands of knowledgeable professional guides, it’s never less than a fascinating adventure. Thanks to its size and variety of biomes, South Africa is prime walking safari territory. With so many options, the secret to finding the right one for you is to think less about the walking and more about the sleeping arrangements. Here’s five styles to consider, from camping mat to luxury sleep-out.
1. Who needs a tent?
The great conservationist Ian Player introduced wilderness trails to South Africa in the 1950s. His style was low impact – backpack everything in and out, sleep under the stars and take turns to keep solitary night watch by a low camp fire, immersed in the eternal nocturnal soundscape of Africa.
These days, the term ‘wilderness trail’ has morphed to apply to some quite luxurious experiences and these ‘sleep-out’ style adventures are usually called Primitive Trails. On Player’s patch, Kwa-Zulu Natal’s Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park keeps the embers alight and runs trails in exactly the same style sixty years on. If you can’t make it to Zululand, then a good option in the Greater Kruger is Lowveld Trails.
Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife Primitive Trail: 3 nights £140 (food included)
Lowveld Trails Primitive Trail: 3 nights £190 (supply own food)
2. Actually, maybe I need a tent
Sitting alone at night deciphering those wild sounds can be a bit too much adventure for some. And there are times when it is not practical as a group size of six is regarded as the minimum for a sleep-out watch rota so that everyone can get enough rest. Carrying a tent means adding a bit of weight to the pack, but even that thin material is enough to keep curious predators at bay.
In the Kruger National Park, vast areas are zoned wilderness, meaning access is restricted to those on foot. Three backpacking trails operate, each exploring a different river system and hikers need to be fully self-sufficient. These trails attract the most hardcore guides, and are highly recommended.
SANParks Backpacking Trails: 3 nights £175 (supply own food)
3. I’d rather a bigger tent please
And somebody else to put it up for me. After a hot day in the veld, a stand-up tent and a camp bed are very welcome. As these can’t be carried, there’s a happy side effect – walkers only need to carry a day pack. The camp can be a seasonal fixture or follow the group, slack-packing style.
This is a popular form of wilderness trail as it hits the right balance of comfort and wildness. In the Greater Kruger, Africa on Foot operates trails from April to November, with the camp moving each night ahead of the group, and walkers just carry essentials such as water and snacks. At camp, warm bucket showers, a gas-powered fridge and camp furniture are among the little comforts. Once trails reach this level, the pricing always includes high quality dining.
Africa On Foot Wilderness Trails: 3 nights £550
4. Does this tent really have an en-suite?
Yes, yes it does, so there’s no need to venture out to communal ablutions after dark. A couple of the very popular SANParks Kruger National Park Wilderness Trails have en-suite facilities. There are seven such trails scattered through the park, operated from fixed camps in restricted areas.
To step up the comfort level, head for the very north of the park, where Pafuri Walking Trails operates as a private concession on community-owned land that has been incorporated into the park. Not only is this the most biodiverse part of the park, at the heart of a huge Transfrontier conservation area, but money spent helps the Makuleke people directly. The Pafuri area is my favourite walking safari destination in South Africa, as it has two perennial rivers and a wonderful variety of terrain from the Lanner Gorge in the west to the fever tree forests in the flood plains to the east.
SANParks Wilderness Trails: 3 nights £280
Pafuri Walking Safaris: £160 pps per night
5. Sleep-out in Style
Rhino Walking Safaris is a specialist walks operator on a private concession within Kruger National Park. Guests are accommodated in comfortable en-suite explorer-style tents at Plains Camp, or for something more special, can walk with a small pack to overnight on a Sleepout deck.
Yes, we’ve come full circle, another celestial sleep-out. In this case, instead of a mat on the ground, walkers sleep in real beds on a platform 4m above the ground, safely protected from any night buzzers in a mesh tent. As guests enjoy a sundowner and keep an eye on the waterhole below, the guide cooks dinner over the fire. Would Ian Player approve of such coddling? Probably not, but he’d be happy to know that we’re still in the bush on foot, immersed in the sounds and scents of Africa.
Rhino Walking Safaris: £330 pps per night
Walking Safaris of South Africa is new from Penguin Random House SA. Both a practical guide and lyrical evocation of the pleasures of walking in wild places, the book covers 21 parks and reserves with big game and guided walks. It’s in stock now for £13.50.
