by Rachel Ricks
Deciding which barrio (neighbourhood) to stay in Buenos Aires can be a tricky decision for travellers to the city. Ranging from the smart and leafy Palermo to the gritty Constitucion, you can find accommodation in all different areas of BsAs, depending what kind of experience you’re looking for. I stayed in each of the main central neighbourhoods while I was there – keen to get to know all the city’s faces – so I’ve done the leg-work for you.
Palermo/ Villa Crespo
The smarter end of town, you’ll notice the difference as soon as you step off the Subte. Tree-lined streets offer funky boutique shops, trendy hotels and pavement cafés. Great nights out can be had in the Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho neighbourhoods. You’ll need to take the Subte or buses to go anywhere in the city centre though.
Best for: Being smart and trendy.
My tip: Looking for some designer shopping? Look out for the Guia Queens Vintage Guide, a fold-out map of this area, highlighting all the cool shops and eateries. The main concentration of outlet stores is in the blocks between Aguirre, Avenida Cordoba and Murillo.
Where I stayed: Pop Hotel (Juan Ramirez de Velasco 793) – excellent, funky boutique hotel.
Centro
I love being in the centre of the hub-bub in a city, and staying on Avenida Cordoba was great for seeing the local office workers in action, and for the widest range of shops and eating places. But of course it has its drawbacks and you’ll invariably have traffic noise outside your window.
Best for: Quick and easy access to everything.
My tip: Make the most of access to the biggest and cheapest range of food, such as the hot buffets in Chinese supermarkets or the food court in the Galerías Pacífico shopping mall on Florida.
Where I stayed: Easy Downtown (Cordoba 875) – mini, self-contained apartments, not very clean but super-handy.
San Telmo
The really touristy area of town – and for good reason – the pretty streets are cobbled and lined with blossom trees, there are lovely restaurants and cafés on every street, a wide choice of accommodation, and of course the famous San Telmo market on Sundays. You can easily stroll down to the renovated docks area of Puerto Madero with good restaurant and nightlife options, too.
Best for: Being touristy.
My tip: Don’t miss the really interesting two boats that are now moored as museums in Puerto Madero, Diques 3 and 4. The Corbeta Uruguay tells the fascinating tale of how it rescued an Antarctic expedition in 1903. (For more on both ships, see: www.ara.mil.ar).
Where I stayed: Ayres Porteños Hostel (Peru 708) – great location, a bit too much focus on gimmicky décor rather than fixing leaking roofs.
Constitucion
Although a bit of a dodgy area and with few attractions of its own, Constitucion offers good value accommodation options and is in easy walking distance of many of the city’s highlights.
Best for: Most affordable accommodation in the city; close to San Telmo and central attractions.
My tip: You’ll hear a few scare stories about this area, but be sensible, look like you know where you’re going, don’t stay out late alone, don’t carry cameras on show or wads of cash, and you will have no trouble.
Where I stayed: Garden House Hostel (Avenida San Juan 1271) – homely, friendly atmosphere with kitchen, roof terrace and two lounges; and Hostel Sol (Lima 1169) – possibly the cheapest bed in town, so expect to get what you pay for, but it has a safe feel.
Montserrat
Although central, this area doesn’t have much going on so is very quiet and prices in shops are a bit cheaper.
Best for: Some quiet.
My tip: Find little bakeries for cheap pastries and cakes to fill you up.
Where I stayed: Kilca Hostel (Mexico 1545) – although friendly and in a lovely house with hammocked courtyards, very basic rooms, one unclean bathroom and cockroach-riddled kitchen. One merit is it does offer disabled access, which I have to say is a first I’ve come across in the continent.
Recoleta
Quite central and near to Retiro for getting on and off buses or trains, Recoleta is a quiet, residential area with smarter shops.
Best for: Easy access to the main museums of the city and the famous Recoleta Cemetery.
My tip: Take an engrossing BA Free Tour of the area.
Where I stayed: Recoleta Hostel (HI affiliated) (Libertad 1216/8) – well-run, good, big dorm rooms and common spaces.
See my full reviews of the hostels and hotels where I stayed and my other expert tips for Buenos Aires on my blog (rtravels.wordpress.com).
Plan your route round the city with mapa.buenosaires.gob.ar or pick up every porteño’s bible, the Guía T, with details of every bus route in the city listed (around Ar.$10 in newsagents).
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