by Kasia Nowicz
The second part of our Montenegro trip was almost entirely devoted to the coastal landmarks. But first of all, we were desperate to plunge ourselves in refreshing water and get a bit of a tan. Once we found ourselves by the sea in a town called Petrovac, it turned out that the coast was so popular with the locals that finding accommodation, a room at a guesthouse, was a challenge. Each of the four of us set on a journey knocking on peoples doors (in this sort of places virtually everyone offers rooms to get some extra cash), just to find that they were fully booked. After about an hour of research, one of us returned with good news – there was a track.
It led to an elderly woman who took us to her unfinished two-floor house. It was a bit far from the town centre so we quickly said goodbye to the holiday makers hub. The house had very basic facilities, but there was a bathroom and a kitchen to our disposal. On top of that we had a separate entrance and a terrace to enjoy evenings on. Soon we met the elderly woman’s husband – wheelchair-ridden, ailing, but cheerful and chatty. We were glad to contribute to the couples modest finances.
It quickly turned out that we did not need to go back to the town to enjoy the beach; there was a small local one nearby. Happily, we set off with our beach gear. Even though the walk took us about 15 minutes it allowed us to familiarize ourselves with the vicinity and with the way people lived there. And it was not a posh part of the world. The path was dusty, along which modest housing or even shacks baked in the scorching sunlight. Litter scattered around, a barking dog in the distance, a lost hen looking for some lucky grain. Silence; not even one person around. It must have been that time of day, when all the locals made good use of the lazy weather at the beach. When we emerged from the arid and barren landscape, a complete change of scene welcomed us at the fresh and lively beach. Bunches of boys were jumping into the water from the rocks, children were splashing around, the bars and eateries enjoyed a good crowd of thirsty and hungry locals.
We soon named it ‘our beach’ and no other could compare to it. Others were either too crowded, too dirty, too plain, or simply did not have the right vibe. Most of all, none of other beaches had the blasting music. And I am not a fan of spoiling natural scenery with loud artificial noises, but the local pop music just complimented the Montenegrin beach experience. I was soon floating on my lilo and immersing myself in local pop culture. We stayed there until the evening when we finally got the courage to do what the locals did – disappear behind the rocks and come back covered entirely in white clay. A SPA treatment completely free in a most natural environment – my skin felt heavenly good.
In the morning or in the evening, when the temperature was kind, we drove to nearby towns to explore the coast a bit more. We enjoyed one evening in Stari Bar where old ruins overlook the rest of the town. Most of all we enjoyed our evening meal at a small family-run restaurant. Literally the whole family worked there as we were served by a very polite and well-trained 10 year old boy. The boy surprised us with his professional manner and ability to communicate in a few languages. His mother was very soft with him and caring. The dishes were flowing from the kitchen onto our tables and presented themselves with grace. Savouring the subtle flavours was like eating at angels’ cafeteria. The gentle gusts of wind were warm and the cicadas loud. A local man, hearing our slavic accent, came around for a chat. He explained why Montenegrins are famous for being lazy – it is just too hot to work! And I don’t blame them – during the day I can only think of plunging myself in the water.
Ulcinj is a town near the Albanian border and we went there to experience even more of cultural and ethnic mixture. There, Albanian women with their heads covered in white scarves mingled with casually dressed Montenegrins. A picturesque town with the Large Beach was allegedly the most beautiful beach in Montenegro. It was large indeed, and rammed, and the second epithet did not convince us at all. We swiftly escaped to ‘our’ local beach to expose ourselves to the latest Montenegrin pop hits.
After a few days of basking in the sun, it was time to get on our way home. Still many days of enjoyment ahead of us, but reaching Ulcinj, the most southern part of our journey, we started to drive northwards. Before crossing the border between Montenegro and Croatia, the final stop on this side was Herceg Novi. We got there after a relatively long drive broken up by a scenic ferry crossing the Bay of Kotor. The problem with the Montenegrin as well as Croatian coast is that all the coastal towns are beautiful. Bathed in the sunlight, the stone houses and paved streets all look outstanding and one town seems to be no better than any another. I suppose one would have to devote significantly more time in each place to actually get the feel for it and tell the difference. Undoubtedly, the Montenegrin towns offer as much pleasure as the Croatian ones but they are still unique and retain a very local character.
Montenegro is a very special place, a cultural and religious hotchpotch, stunning natural scenery and prices in Euro even though it doesn’t belong to European Union. A country worth a visit.
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