Round-the-world adventurers Matt and Sharon Ward have been busy exploring Kuala Lumpur from a his and hers perspective. Here’s what they had to say about the Malaysian capital…
We were keen to try the train from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur so we could take in some of the countryside. Strangely enough, it worked out cheaper for us to fly the 45-minute journey at a total of £57, rather than £34 each by train. With the airport only 15 minutes away by bus, and being on a tight budget, we decided to fly to the Malaysian capital. On arrival, we were looking forward to free digs thanks to one of Sharon’s KL-based friends.
Matt’s ‘His Guide’
I was quite impressed with the smooth transition from the airport to our accommodation in Ampang via the KL train system. On first impressions, I wasn’t overly taken by the cleanliness of the city and the hospitality of the locals, but I was prepared to give it a chance. For our first night we sat outside The Library and sampled a few happy hour beers. Unfortunately car horns and rackety old buses drowned out our chat out. The fumes were starting to get on my nerves also, but I felt better after a nice Indian meal.
The following day we took a couple of trains to the Batu Caves. My friend from Australia, who had visited the caves, messaged me saying “Enjoy the madness”. As we approached, I was intrigued by his message. If it was just beggars and tourists, then I could handle that. As we arrived at the entrance, the sight of the massive Statue of Murugan greeted us. My eyes quickly diverted towards the 272 steps, and the little objects on them. It was only when we started to make our way up the steps that I realised the small objects were in fact monkeys!
Sweat and a racing heart quickly replaced my cool, calm approach as they ran around our feet. We were about half way up when Sharon decided to take a picture of them as I paced on ahead, looking for some restbite. As I turned around to check on Sharon’s progress, I witnessed my wife and a monkey wrestling over a water bottle. Neither were letting go. I saw a different side to my wife, and in future, when she asks me to do something, I’ll do it without any questions. Thankfully for me, or so I thought, the heavens opened as we reached the top, which prompted the monkeys to scatter. As we headed back down the steps, my ever-reliable slip-on shoes gave way and I ended up going down the steps on my bum. To be honest, Sharon wasn’t much help as she grabbed my crown jewels instead of my arm. With a sore bum, bruised ego, and the thought of monkeys laughing at me in the trees, I quickly marched to the bottom.
That evening we grabbed a taxi to the Traders Hotel and took the lift to the 33rd floor to enjoy their Sky Bar. I was little apprehensive about the prices in this swanky bar, but surprisingly it worked out as an affordable choice. Our final stop of the night was to the packed out Beach Club. I was happy to see some live music on stage despite the uncomfortable sight of beautiful-looking local women with older western men.
On our final day in KL, we decided on a tour of the Petronas Towers. Not one for heights, I managed to make it up to the Sky Bridge on the 43rd floor before my legs felt like jelly. Sharon was off doing her best David Bailey impression as I tried to compose myself. I asked a staff member if I had to go to the top, or if I could just go back down. She laughed at me and proceeded to show me her best Gangnam Style rendition. Onwards to the 86th level and I actually felt a bit better up there as the floor wasn’t moving so much. The 20 minutes at the top was far too long and I wasn’t the only one thinking this as a large queue formed at the lift doors, before we made our way back towards terra firma.
On a whole, I wasn’t overly fond of KL due to the fumes, cleanliness and lack of interaction from the locals. Perhaps we didn’t see enough of the real KL, but my first impression was that I preferred Singapore a lot more.
Sharon’s ‘Her Guide’
On leaving KL airport we jumped on the KLIA Ekspres train to KL Sentral which cost RM35 each and took about 30 minutes. From there we transferred to the LRT line, which took us directly to my friend’s condo in the city centre. We were greeted by the sight of the Petronas Twin Towers, before making our way out for the evening. After a night at the excellent Library, we popped over the road to the Suria shopping mall and had a very nice Indian meal in Spice for Life. £10 for a two-course meal and a couple of drinks each was definitely within our budget.
For our first full day, we decided to visit the Batu Caves. From KL Sentral we got the KTM Komuter for 1RM each (20p), which took about 30 minutes and stopped right outside the caves. Stepping out of the station you are presented with the impressive sight of the massive golden Statue of Murugan. The toilets cost 20c and were not great, but after a litre of water, needs must. Eventually, we made our way up the 272 steps with menacing-looking monkeys at either side. I put down my water bottle to take a picture when one of them scurried over and grabbed it. As I grabbed the bottle back, the monkey took a swipe for me, which prompted me to let go instantly. I foolishly realised that I was fighting with a wild monkey and should have just let him have it. As someone kindly chased him off, I sprinted up the remaining steps. The heavens opened as we reached the summit. Thankfully the monkeys didn’t like the rain, and neither did Matt’s slip-on shoes. My heroic attempts to break his fall were NOT appreciated.
That evening we went to the Sky Bar within Traders Hotel, the perfect place for a view of the Petronas Towers. We ended the night in the Beach Club, where the music was quite poppy and I enjoyed it. The place was packed, but predominantly full of women. It’s not until the next day I realised that I may have been the only western female in the club, and the men with three women hanging off them; well, come to your own conclusions on that one.
For our last day, we headed up the Petronas Towers and once we were in the lift there was no going back. From there we were able to walk across the Sky Bridge, which linked the two towers. I strolled off and started taking pictures of the view. It’s not until I turn round that I see Matt heading back towards the lift. He’s seen enough. He’s then persuaded to walk partially over the bridge so we can get some photographs of the two of us. He forces a smile and almost looks like he is enjoying himself. 15 minutes on the Sky Bridge was far too long as there isn’t much else to do once you’ve taken a few pictures. Next stop level 86. Up there was a really good interactive setup, which amused both children and adults alike. I really enjoyed the Petronas Towers and at £16, it wasn’t overly expensive.
Overall I enjoyed KL, although we were possibly spoilt with the cleanliness and friendliness of Singapore. I was a little disappointed that KL wasn’t of the same standard. However, I think there was still a lot more to discover and wouldn’t rule out going back again.
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